Xiao Wang Fu A group of restaurants all offering a range from homely dishes at 20 RMB to the Peking duck at up to 200 RMB. Popular with locals and expats alike, with an interesting line in décor. Food and service are reliable throughout the group.

Bai Zhou Xiang Congee (rice porridge), or more properly zhou, is a Chinese staple. Originating in the days where you eked out your rice with whatever was available, zhou has evolved into a tasty and above-all healthy food. Dozens of varieties available at this specialist outlet, including a taste of dog porridge if you fancy.

Kyline Pavilion A hutong restaurant offering traditional but unusual Beijnig dishes at reasonable prices (20-70 RMB). The kyline is one of China's mythological creatures, and this restaurant is hard to find but worth the search.