Scent of Guizhou Private Kitchen's alluring Guizhou aromas distinguish themselves from not only the surrounding alleyways, but also from the rest of Beijing’s cuisine.

Once you've secured a table and get your visual fill of the renovated skylit pingfang, the experience truly commences. Embolden your taste buds and order the Heartleaf Houttuynin Guizhou Style (26 yuan), a vegetable indigenous to Guizhou that tastes strangely of fish. 44's other specialty vegetable dish, the Tomato Fried Pak Choi (22 yuan) is a less daring option, yet frighteningly flavorful, complemented by the Sour Soup Stewed Fish (68 yuan), a tangy rendering of Tom Yum Goong, made with tomatoes and catfish. While the House Spicy Whirlwind Prawn (68 yuan) is very similar to other Chinese shrimp dishes, we enjoyed the generous portions.

Finally, be sure to try the sweetly thick Meigui Mijiu (38 yuan/carafe), the last requisite of dining at 44.

Private Kitchen No. 44

Tel: 6400-1280

Add: 44 Xiguan Hutong, South of Beixinqiao subway station

(cityweekend.com.cn June 12, 2008)