The newly opened Baan Chokdee is a slice of refined Thai cuisine tucked away in Shunyi, along the rim of Roma Lake. The elegantly warm decor teeters between rich and exotic, making it easy to forget you're still in Beijing.

The menu features a varied selection of zesty salads, spicy curries and vegetable stir-fries, as well as an extensive selection of soups, rice and noodle dishes. Pad Thai is always a safe choice for the conservative diner, and Baan Chokdee does it well: The noodles are cooked to the ideal tenderness and arrive wrapped in an egg crepe (RMB 25). The sweet tartness of this dish balances the spicy red curry (RMB 35), which came with eggplants and our choice of chicken, beef or seafood.

To top off the meal, go straight to the sticky mango rice (RMB 15). The soft, saccharine mango glazed with sweetened cream makes for a lovely contrast to the chewy and lightly salted sticky rice.

Baan Chokdee

Open: Tue-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm.

Location: 12 Luodonglu, Luogezhuang, Houshayuzeng, Shunyi District

Tel: 136 8360 3301

(China Daily December 26, 2007)