The newest outpost in the Crystal Jade empire sports a striking rounded window, which surrounds a sleek waterfall and bar.

This Singaporean chain bills itself as “authentic Cantonese,” but their repertoire extends far and beyond, including Taiwan and Korean cuisine. This particular branch specializes in health-conscious meals, and the small portions are meant to be just that, we hope. The highlight of our night was the appetizer: morsels of fish glazed in osmanthus honey sauce (RMB 32) melted on our palates.

Our entree, crispy noodles covered in seafood broth (RMB 78), wasn’t greasy or MSG-loaded but had too little seafood and was a small step up from ramen at best. For dessert, we had a delicious pulpy mango pudding with ice cream inside a coconut shell (RMB 40).

From the decoration to the presentation of the food, this place is an ideal spot for pompous dining.

Crystal Jade Dining In

Open: 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-10pm.

Location: L404, 4/F, Mansion A, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District

Tel: 010-6587 1228

(That's Beijing by Orr Shtuhl October 8, 2007)