Michel, 48, took a roundabout path to becoming a master chef. As a child, he dreamed of becoming a diver or motorcyclist. Later, his father encouraged him to follow in his footsteps and become an accountant. Michel went so far as to get a baccalaureate degree in accountancy.

But his dreams were elsewhere. He had found his passion in the delicious dishes of his mother’s cooking, and convinced his family to enroll him in the culinary arts program at the Centre de Formation d’Apprentis in Marseille, where he graduated at the top of class. He earned his first Michelin star in 2001 and the second in 2009.

He is now the chef and director of the Saint-James, a Relais & Chateaux boutique hotel with three restaurants designed by Jean Nouvel. He is also a lover of table arts, spending a good deal of his free time visiting porcelain producers.

Mark Lettenbichler, general manager of the Ritz-Carlton Beijing, said: "We are excited to have Michel Portos with us. His award winning culinary creations will delight our guests and leave everyone a memorable culinary experience."

The Michelin Guide had awarded restaurants by anonymous assessment with a three-star system since 1926. One star signals a good restaurant. Two means first-class cooking worth a detour. Three means exceptional cuisine worth a special journey, often extremely expensive, and with an extensive wine list. There is no Michelin Guide for restaurants on China’s mainland.