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Chengdu tourist sites intact, still yield their wonders
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Cen, who believed in the ancient Chinese philosophy of "meting out severe penalties in hard times," prosecuted the Boxers to the fullest extent of the law, killing Liao Jiumei, their leader in Chengdu. As Liao was popular in Chengdu, Cen's acts aroused widespread dissatisfaction and hatred.

Zhao, who was also an official in Sichuan, felt that Cen's efforts were doomed to failure as they went against the will of the people. Although he had been Cen's teacher as a child, Zhao could neither criticize Cen nor approach him directly to urge a change in approach, for Cen was now his superior.

Zhao, noted for both his writing and calligraphy, wrote the couplet "Conquering the Mind" and had it hung in the Temple of Marquis Wu. He hoped that Cen would see the couplet and understand what he meant.

Many days passed after the couplet was put on display without Cen learning of its existence. Zhao eventually arranged a banquet for Cen in the temple as part of a spring outing. There, Cen read the couplet and was told its meaning. But the arrogant Cen was irritated with his former teacher's "offence" and demoted him, banishing him to a faraway place.

It was only after Cen suffered major setbacks several years later due to his hard line and was almost dismissed that he truly understood the couplet's meaning.

When the Qing government sent him to Sichuan to suppress the Railway Protection Movement in 1911, which helped trigger the Revolution of 1911, Cen correctly assessed the situation. This time, he did not suppress the revolutionaries who later overthrew the Qing government in the Revolution of 1911 and established the Republic of China. Instead, Cen cooperated with their leader Dr Sun Yat-sen, and contributed to the new republic.

The couplet's rich connotations attract many visitors in the temple, including top Chinese leaders. When the late Chairman Mao Zedong visited the temple in 1958, he stayed in front of the couplet for a long time and highly praised it.

Sharp-eyed visitors to Chengdu will notice the emblem of a circular gold leaf, featuring four flying birds surrounding the sun in many parts of the city.

It is on the top of the overpass of the People's Road South leading to the airport, on outdoor advertisements promoting the city's image and on the television screen when one tunes in to the Chengdu television station.

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