"You know I am French so coffee is very important. And as for me I do not wish to simply drink a cup of coffee and bolt, as do the Americans. I want to relax and drink slowly and to enjoy the ambiance, perhaps have something sweet to eat with my coffee," Katia said, adjusting the pretty silver bracelet on her slender wrist. "And, as a child I remember the bistros and cafes on the mountainside. The workers would come in for a big bowl of cafe au lait, those bowls steamed like mini-volcanoes and smelled so good! Some of the men would have a nip of brandy with their coffee, especially on cold winter mornings. They'd talk as they drank and ate. Breakfast was a social event and a neighborhood gathering. This is the reason I do not like to go to chain coffee shops. They're too fake, too silly, although in some the coffee is good."

Starbucks came to China over ten years ago to fill the growing demand for coffee culture in China and the stores are all over Beijing and other large cities in China. Customers of all ages and nationalities flock to Starbucks but the atmosphere is often a bit loud and chaotic. Some of the stores, especially the one around San Li Tun and the Lido Hotel, tend to play the music too loudly so it's hard to converse. Others are too crowded. In addition to Starbucks three other coffee chains of Chinese origin exist: LeiLei – mostly in the airports: expensive and mediocre although the simpering helper enthusiastically serves customers; SPR: very expensive but the coffee is excellent, they serve espresso properly in Italian steel coffeemakers and make wonderful cappuccinos; and Sculpting in Time, a rather hip coffee shop, a bit messy but cozy and catering to the younger generation.

"But I must tell you I have found the best coffee bistro in town," Katia confided one late afternoon as we sat getting our feet massaged. "It is called Dareen Coffee and it has been around a good length of time. I think the owner must be Arabic because he offers excellent Turkish coffee and outstanding espresso. The patron, Khalim Aljaadi, is from Lebanon: his cakes, oh la la! They are not fancy and contrived looking like Starbucks food which seems so plastique! Dareen's desserts are real, and magnifique!" She kissed the tip of her fingers and continued.

"You see he makes them all and this is the kind of sweet food you would find in Syria, Lebanon, or Palestine; his manager may be from Palestine. Yesterday I had the lemon torte, and then, I am sad to confess, I had the chocolate, just one piece, so two in total. Vraiment, my diet is wrecked but my soul is happy."

Katia went on describing the Alsatian apple torte and the other desserts and mentioned Dareen's au lait coffees start at 20 RMB, their cakes at 20 RMB. "It's a lovely area too, on north San Li Tun, right next to the Petite Parisian; funny I am French but I prefer this place over that one! But at either place you can sit outside under shady trees and green plants and chat with your friends, enjoy good coffee and tasty cakes. Very quiet, very natural. You know Beijing used to look like this area only 20 years ago. Everything is getting so modern, too many cars and too many wide roads. The quaint areas, the comfortable places for relaxing, they are disappearing so fast. We must support these individuals who build small, personal businesses and take pride in preparing home made food that is so delicious. It is not slick like Starbucks but it is warming to the cour. That’s most important, n'est pas?"

Canadian Keithas Stockland regularly patronizes Dareen Caffee.

Dareen has two locations: the original is on the south bank of Houhai, 200 meters west of Yinding Bridge, next to Holy Cat, Xicheng District. (no tel)

The second is on 2 San Li Tun Bei Lu, Chaoyang District. (no tel) Both offer cappuccinos, lattes (RMB 19-25), mochas (RMB 22-28), and espressos (RMB 15, 20). The coffee beans are always freshly roasted. Fresh squeezed lemonade (RMB 15) is also offered and a few other things, the Lebanese mint tea is great! Coffee beans are for sale at both location, pricey but well worth it for those who love the bean. They are open every day, from early in the morning to late at night.

(China.org.cn July 4, 2008)