The massive Sian Ka'an Biosphere refuge
(above) on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is proving a big drawcard for
visitors.
Going wild in Mexico doesn't have to mean a tequila-fueled beach
vacation dancing on tabletops surrounded by carousing college kids
on spring break. In fact, the big party destination of Cancun is
just a short distance from lush parks hosting wildlife of another
sort.
Neon pink flamingos, howler monkeys, brilliant toucans and
mysterious sea turtles are just a few of the locals you can meet by
trading la vida loca for a more nature-friendly trip.
Cancun and its surrounding area of the Riviera Maya are Mexico's
top destination for international travelers, drawing more than 3.5
million visitors a year.
The beach was the lure for the first visit my wife and I took
six years ago. But since then, we've returned to explore the
Northern Hemisphere's largest barrier reef off the coast, natural
springs pocking the Yucatan Peninsula, mangrove swamps, salt
marshes and thick jungle.
Much of the Yucatan is a flat limestone slab, topped with low
jungle and scrub. There are no real rivers; the heavy seasonal rain
seeps into sinkholes - known locally as cenotes - that have eroded
over the millennia into the porous stone. The fresh water travels
underground and percolates into the sea from natural springs.
The woods, cenotes and waters off the coast host a riot of
colorful animals. Great blue herons, anteaters, the rust rump
tarantula, giant iguanas, ocelots, manatees and countless other
animals make their home in the region.
Families or other travelers who want to heed the call of the
wild can check out the three eco-parks of Xcaret, Xel-Ha and Tres
Rios. All are just a short ride away from the impressive resorts at
Cancun, Playa del Carmen and the rest of the Riviera Maya.
Xcaret is the most developed. It's a bit like a big water park
in the United States - but with a walk-through butterfly pavilion.
You can also follow a narrow river from a spring out to the
Caribbean and swim with dolphins and manatee.
Xel-Ha is the middle of the pack. It feels less engineered and
is centered around a huge lagoon where fresh spring water mingles
with the saltwater and teems with electric-colored fish. Xel-Ha
also offers chances to swim with the dolphins.
Tres Rios is our favorite. It is far less developed than the
other two parks. You can kayak in the surf or canoe solo through
the mangroves (no crocodiles as far as we could see), take a boat
out to snorkel on the reef or ride horses.
More adventurous tourists stray a bit farther and visit the gem
of the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Refuge. The UNESCO world heritage site
sprawls across about 530,000 hectares and includes everything from
offshore coral reefs in to the beaches, lagoons, cenotes and low
tropical forests.
It's a good idea to book a trip through the local tourism office
as the roads are tricky. We took a day-trip with a fly-by-night
tour operator we found through our hotel in Playa del Carmen and
ended up being chauffeured by a German tourist excited to drive an
American jeep.
We spent a day in the biosphere, slowly making our way along
rutted roads through the jungle to a boat that ferried us through
mangrove-filled marshes.
We spent a good 20 minutes circling a mangrove island packed
with two species with memorable names - Magnificent Frigatebirds
and Brown Boobies. Flamingos prompted our latest trip to Mexico.
I'd never seen a live example of the model for countless tacky lawn
ornaments. So we decided to go big and see hundreds of them at
once.
We centered the trip in the city of Merida in the northwest part
of the Yucatan Peninsula. Two of the best spots for
flamingo-watching are the villages of Celestun, which we chose, and
Rio Lagartos.
Tens of thousands of flamingos spend a good part of the year in
these two spots, socializing, feeding and mating. They gain their
distinctive color from the shrimp and other crustaceans they spend
all day hunting in shallow water.
You can catch a flamingo tour either from the beach or by the
side of the bridge as you first enter town. We joined a French
couple for a half-day tour by boat from the beach for about US$20
each.
When we reached the flamingos, our guide killed the motor and we
coasted within 100 meters of a group of about 75 of the birds. As
the boat rocked gently, it was a bit of a shock to hear the elegant
birds chatting. They sound almost exactly like ducks quacking.
Locals realize the importance of the birds. Increasingly Mexico
sees eco-tourism as a way to steer jobs and investment to some
impoverished rural areas.
"We want to change the perception of Mexico that it's just sun
and beach," said Eduardo Chaillo, director of the Mexico Tourism
Board's Strategic Business Unit for the US and Canada.
So Mexican tourism officials are working with National
Geographic and tour operators to introduce the world to the
country's natural spots.
"But we cannot risk these precious places by promoting them
massively," said Chaillo.
For now, it appears tourists aren't exactly swarming the
Yucatan's wild places. So, whether it's a quick break from the
beach or the theme of your trip, Mexico's wildlife is waiting.
(Shanghai Daily by Fritz Faerber January 28, 2008)
