The capital of Southwest China's Sichuan Province, Chengdu is a
perfect place for "losers". The old saying warns, "Don't visit
Sichuan when you are still young."
Sichuan, also known as "Heavenly Kingdom", is rich in natural
resources and cultural heritage. Surrounded by high mountains and
nurtured by big rivers, the basin has often avoided wars and
natural disasters throughout the ages. This peace has helped
cultivate a sort of "loser's personality". That means being
self-centered, slack and indulging in the everyday pleasure of
life.
And some of the best places to find these "losers" are the
teahouses in Chengdu. Here, they gamble by playing mahjong and all
kinds of card games, watch their caged birds, chat, or do nothing.
They enjoy eating ma la tang (meaning "numb, spicy and hot", a
cheap Chengdu delicacy featuring skewered bits of vegetable and
meat cooked in a hot pot); and playing mahjong with tiny stakes.
Unfortunately being born in the city means that "the loser's
personality" is in my blood. I had been a teahouse regular for as
long as I can recall. When I was in primary school, I got used to
watching my parents play mahjong with their friends. By the time I
got to middle school, I was playing too, first with my cousin, then
my mother and grandmother.
I started gambling with my classmates when I was in high school,
by playing pool, chess or cards. To prevent their son from becoming
another Chengdu "loser", my parents suggested that I move to
Beijing after college.
But the times are changing and so too is the reputation of
Chengdu.
Now the city has become one of the most popular travel
destinations in the country. China's "capital of mahjong" is trying
to turn itself into a national center for recreation. Many Chengdu
folks believe that mahjong, hotpot restaurants and teahouses have
created an ideal atmosphere to attract tourists.
My friends often ask where they should go when they visit
Chengdu - here's what I tell them:
You should eat at any restaurant packed with local people. There
are plenty of them. Or ask taxidrivers. But don't follow your
guidebook's recommendations, unless you want to eat just gongbao
chicken and mapo toufu. The restaurants in Chengdu drift in and out
of fashion all of the time and many travel guidebooks don't account
for this.
My only recommendation is Hong Xing Jiu Lou (Pink Apricot
Restaurant), simply because my family has chosen it for our New
Year banquet for the past four or five years. A couple of my
friends who just returned from their vacation in Chengdu one month
ago said it was great. Most taxidrivers will know how to get
there.
Teahouses along the Jinjiang River and inside parks are usually
better and are certainly more popular.
The best place to learn Chengdu-style mahjong is in teahouses.
Watch people playing while sipping a cup of tea. With at least two
buddies, you can start playing after watching for two hours. Make
sure to lay a wager, because as the old Chengdu saying goes,
gambling for tiny stakes is pleasant.
(China Daily January 10, 2008)
