When it comes to Sichuan cuisine, people immediately think of it as being hot, numbingly spicy and somewhat salty. Some can't forget the tingling that remains on their tongues, the lingering effect of Sichuan peppers.
In fact, Sichuan cuisine is famous for its many flavors. In addition to the popular collection of spicy dishes with explosive flavors, the cuisine also has many recipes that play light with the spice.
"We don't want to simply magnify just one aspect of Sichuan cooking," said Yan Jin, manager of Shanghai Feiteng Yuxiang Restaurant. "Every dish in Sichuan cuisine has its own unique taste."
This nationwide restaurant chain with a 10-year history offers Sichuan cuisine that is both hot and genuine. Dishes which are numbingly spicy take up just half of the menu.
"Special roast chicken" is one of the distinctively light and flavorful dishes.
According to chef Hu Ping, it takes him more than 12 hours to prepare and serve this dish. The chicken is roasted with a glaze made with soy sauce, ginger, shallots and other seasonings. It boasts a rich, subtle flavor with its crispy skin and appealing aromas.
"To ensure the quality and taste, only nine dishes of the chicken are served every day. Reservations are required one day ahead," Hu said.
Healthy vegetarian dishes such as in-house green tofu (bean curd) and salad with corn and mango are another two good treats to trick the taste buds. The braised bean curd with apricot can make for a warm and cozy feeling in contrast to the winter cold outside.
Different from many Sichuan cuisine restaurants whose menus and tastes have subconsciously become localized, Feiteng Yuxiang holds on strongly to its Sichuan heritage.
All of its 50 chefs are natives of the province where it has its own farmland planted with high-quality chilli pepper and Sichuan pepper, also known as prickly ash.
"Authentic Sichuan food has an emphasis on using many spice seasonings such as pickled mustard tubers and broad bean sauce," chef Hu added. "We stress the freshness and quality of raw produce."
For instance, the restaurant only serves bullfrogs weighing 100g-150g to ensure the flesh tenderness.
And the hit dish, "poached catfish in hot chili oil" requires the collaboration of 10 chefs so that it can be served as quickly as possible to maintain its beautiful color and fresh flavor.
Sichuan pepper never fails to accompany the meltingly tender slices of fish, ensuring the complex and exciting tastes are drawn out. The tiny pods of Sichuan pepper are expected to work inside the mouth through different stages - slightly spicy at first, followed by a mild tingling sensation, and then complete numbness of the mouth.
It is highly recommended to try light flavored food prior to taking spicy and strongly flavored courses in case your taste buds get numb and miss the essence of each dish.
Hot pepper and ginger, frequently used in Sichuan cuisine, are said to have health benefits in the chilly winter, increasing metabolism and helping maintain the body's equilibrium.
And it's not only the food which can be "hot" here. So are some of the diners such as Hong Kong actor Eric Tsang and mainland actress Zhao Wei who are Sichuan food lovers and frequent patrons.
(Shanghai Daily December 15, 2008)
