Within Kumbum Monastery, there are four monastic colleges: the Debate College, the Tantric College, the Medical College, and the Kalachakra College. The Gelug Sect places a strong emphasis on debate, and the Debate College is currently the largest of the four. Monks study their respective subjects in these colleges and upon graduation, receive a geshe degree, which is the highest degree in Tibetan Buddhism.

A side view of the Kalachakra Institute.

For the less touristically-inclined visitor, there is a circumambulation path in the mountains surrounding the monastery that provides some respite from the hubbub down below. You can make your way to this path by snaking your way through the monks' quarters to the west of the main temples. There are also some temples in this area, but they are all off-limits to visitors. (They are after all esoteric traditions considered dangerous to the ignorant observer.) Even though you won't be able to see what is going on, you may hear ceremonial cymbals and drums clanking and beating from behind closed doors. Once you reach a stone path, surrounded by an iron fence shrouded in prayer flags, begin your circumambulation clockwise around the monastery.

Circumambulatory path around Kumbum Monastery. [Photo by Lola Boatwright]