Sitting on a wooden boat and rowing down the Tuojiang River is probably the best way to take in Phoenix's scenery. [Photo: CRIENGLISH.com/Duan Xuelian]

Hidden in the deep green mountain ranges in the southwestern part of China's Hunan Province, the ancient town of Phoenix (鳳凰古鎮(zhèn), Fenghuang in Pinyin) attracts many backpackers as a place that lets them escape the hustle and bustle of city life.

But as its fame resounds across the nation, Phoenix is no longer the peaceful small town it used to be.

There are now two major districts in Phoenix, one new emerging residential area and the old town region. Tourists usually stay in the new district because of its better accommodations and convenient services. A taxi ride from here to the old town area takes only 10 minutes and costs four yuan.

A downpour had just drenched Phoenix when I visited the ancient township on a Sunday afternoon. The cobblestone alleys interlacing the place were shining and slippery from the rain.

A copper statue of a Phoenix spreading its wings stands at the entrance of the scenic area. Because the phoenix is an auspicious bird in Chinese legends, Phoenix town is said to be a blessed place.

You will find yourself surrounded by numerous boutiques along the narrow alleys when you enter the area. In some ways, Phoenix is as commercialized as any other tourist towns in China.

Most of the stores sell local specialties, food and handicrafts. Ginger sugar is the most common one. It is known as "twisted sugar" because of the way it is processed. Several sugar makers will display their skills twisting the sticky syrup before it becomes solid.