On our first day in town, we met Huang Shuihua, whose family has grown and processed rock tea for five generations. Huang invited us to his home to sample some of their handiwork and chat.

We had arrived during the 20-day May harvest and the fragrance of tealeaves around Huang's home was stiff enough to make us squint.

After showing us the equipment and explaining the processing methods, Huang sat us at an ornately carved wooden tea table with his family. Conversation and teas simmered for hours.

They showed how to properly swill the rock tea. It should first be swished around in the mouth and then noisily slurped with an open maw. Everyone sniggered as I struggled to master the technique, usually gurgling rather than gulping. They applauded when I finally got it right.

I had been worried there might be a surprise bill at the end, followed by a dispute about why we'd never agreed to buy anything. Instead, Huang's family gave us free packets of our favorite tea and drove us back to our hotel.

For the rest of the trip, Huang acted as our driver, guide and friend. Again, I felt a little anxious when he dropped us off at the airport.

He'd earlier said he charged 300 yuan ($43.8) a day as a driver. He hadn't driven us around for more than half an hour a day but he'd helped us find our way around and we seemed to have established a genuine bond.

When I asked what we owed him, he shrugged.

"Whatever," he said.

And he meant it.

It seems Wuyi Mountains' majestic natural landscapes are complemented by an even greater resource - warm and honest local people.

That really made the trip worthwhile.