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The Mansion of Prince Gong is an ideal spot to sip a cup of tea while watching Chinese opera in its theater. |
There are four musts for visitors to Beijing: hiking the Great Wall, visiting the Forbidden City, eating Peking Roast Duck and wandering around the hutongs near Shichahai.
Located opposite the rear entrance of Beihai Park, Shichahai is the name of three connecting lakes - Qianhai, Houhai and Xihai. It is also an ideal place to get a taste of Beijing culture, old and new, in one day.
6am-9am, cruise the hutongs:
An early-morning stroll through the hutong lanes before the weather gets too hot offers a glimpse of everyday life in these old neighborhoods: residents doing exercises, and people walking their dogs, feeding their birds or watering their plants. The nearby food stalls offer such Beijing-style breakfast choices as fried pancakes, fried dough (you tiao), bean curd jelly (doufu nao) and a variety of steamed buns.
The traditional hutong courtyard houses, or siheyuan, reveal architectural touches of old Beijing and are perfect for a few snapshots. The most famous hutong is Jin Si Hutong, which actually includes 18 lanes and is exemplary of the hutong layout.
9am-noon, visit celebrity homes:
Shichahai was where royal families and aristocrats lived in the early 20th century. The area was full of politicians, philosophers, scientists, artists, writers and painters. Plenty of regal houses, gardens and historical architecture illustrate the area's charm. Take a rickshaw to enjoy the view but be sure to stop from time to time to actually visit these homes.
Leisurely sipping a cup of tea at the Mansion of Prince Gong while watching Chinese Opera in its theater will give you a glimpse of the opulent life of a royal family in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Examining the embroidery made by Madam Soong Chingling (former vice-chairman of PRC), which is hung on the walls of her simple room, you can get a feel for the great woman's inner beauty. You can also visit the former homes of scientist Guo Shoujing of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), Peking Opera star Mei Lanfang and modern Chinese writer Guo Moruo, the mansions of Prince Chun and Prince Qing of the Qing Dynasty, and the Mansion of Prince Regent.
Noon-3pm, snacks and a nap:
To the west of the former home of Madam Song Qingling is the Jiumen Snack Restaurant, which contains no less than 12 local snack stands like Baodu Feng and Chatang Li.
Then wander along the lake and enjoy the cool shade under the willow trees. You can also leisurely lie on a stone chair to have a nap, or feed wild ducks in the water. As a famous summer resort, Shichahai provides vast areas where travelers can take refuge from the hot summer. The lake water with its floating lotuses glitters and willows line the bank like a green curtain and shelter young lovers wandering lakeside.
3-6pm, shop in the hutongs:
You will stumble across many interesting small shops and boutiques in the old stone-paved alleys. Try out Yandai Xiejie - it means an oblique street which looks like a long-stemmed pipe because that is where those pipes were sold. Here you can find a pipe shop and various handicraft and antique shops.
6-9pm, sunset on the bridge:
Silver Ingot Bridge, a narrow channel joining Qianhai and Houhai lakes is a wonderful spot to enjoy the beautiful sunset and view of West Hills. Praised by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty as one of "the most beautiful sceneries in Beijing", this has long been a sunset spot favored by tourists. Even people cruising the water in boats will often stop to join the bridge crowd. Just a few meters away are two restaurants, Kaorou Ji and Baodu Zhang, each with a history of more than a hundred years. Savor their dim lights and traditional lanterns which create a cozy atmosphere for customers.
9pm-midnight, drinks and boats:
Shichahai becomes a bustling hub in the evening. The lake, with cafs, bars and pubs tucked away in its many secluded corners, is now a prime nightlife destination in Beijing. There are more than 50 bars and teahouses, each with their own distinctive characteristics. Cane chairs, bamboo curtains and lanterns have been widely adopted as ornaments by the growing multitude of bars. This delightful area is like a magnet for those wanting to relax over a drink while watching life on and off the water. Feast your eyes on the brilliant neon signs on both sides of the water and your ears on the traditional melodies played by ladies sitting in front of the passing boats.
Tips:
1. There are two pavilions near the Shichahai gate which provide guidance and maps to visitors during the Olympic Games;
2. There are 33 families in the Shichahai area providing homestays. Booking Line: 13911017557
(China Daily August 12, 2008)