If one thing sets Shenzhen's various up-market malls apart, given their similar shopping experiences with near-identical brand name designer goods, it has to be the respective restaurant options they have to offer.

Even then, mid market chains such as Pizza Hut, Taco Bell Grande, Banana Leaf and Thai Kitchen, are threatening to dominate and individual exceptions are becoming the exception.

However, discerning customers who want to polish off some high-end shopping can now head to CoCo Park for some high-end dining.

Opening quietly at the end of December, Parkhaus, an unflattering German word for a car park but a more flattering invitation to "park here to share the wine and cheese with us". But I suppose in keeping with its name and, say, the cost of garaging your BMW or Merc, it also comes at a price.

But the price -- which I'll come back to -- does buy quality, one of the three concepts outlined by its visionary owner, Calvin Wong.

Despite returning to Hong Kong from his studies in Canada as a qualified civil engineer he decided that the industry wasn't for him and his love of travel and food instead led to this, his first enterprise, and an attempt to educate Shenzheners about European gourmet food.

"I try everything myself before I buy it for the restaurant: Spanish ham, English and French cheeses; I make sure I pick the best things," he says.

Despite its name, there is no German food on offer but he reassures German readers that once he finds some he will serve it.

He found CoCo Park as a location in a magazine and said it suited him perfectly. His basement-level restaurant looks out over the square. Ideal for warmer weather.

Inside, it resembles a European wine bar, heavy on wood (large wooden tables and benches are ideal for groups to sit and share a meal) and shelves displaying a variety of imported goods -- again at a price: Caviar, 150 yuan; a ready to cook paella dish including the pan, at 185 yuan and bottles of olive oil at 105 yuan each.

Wines chosen himself from his Hong Kong consultant range in price from a 240 yuan bottle of Underagga Cabernet Sauvignon or Sauvignon Blanc to a 4,880 yuan 1991 bottle of Philip Togni (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon that Calvin says has the taste of something six times the price.

And so to the food. It is good, which is why I've left it to last.

On our first visit I had the sole fillet, served with what on the menu were described as French fries, but more accurately potato wedges, and mixed vegetables (80 yuan).

The plates were hot and so, too, was all of the food -- something in itself welcome in Shenzhen's so-called western-style restaurants. The sole was lightly fried so maintained its texture and the potatoes were cooked just right. My colleague's pasta of the day (60 yuan) with chorizo was "homely, country-style".

On our second visit the Scottish smoked salmon was perfectly served with toasted bread and accompaniments (75 yuan).

Other European classics on offer include bruschetta and garlic bread (40/30 yuan), fish and chips (80 yuan), Burgundy style beef with spaghetti (108 yuan) and Croque Monsieur (50 yuan).

But at a price, the selection of cheeses to finish the meal takes some beating with some names I hadn't even heard of (Cheddar of course excepted).

Washed down with a glass of house wine (prices 58 - 88 yuan) you can choose from a small or large selection (150/250 yuan) but if you're in the mood for something elusive you'll enjoy the taste of a Brie de Meaux or Montgomery Cheddar as if they've just left the market stall.

Sure, the prices are more like a four star hotel, but Calvin makes no excuses given what he says is the rent he has to pay. He's busy now preparing his full menu which will be available early next month.

As UK High Streets become clones of each other, we can only hope Shenzhen doesn't let its shopping malls follow that poor example of western life. If Calvin maintains his standards of quality and service I'm sure he'll make sure Coco Park doesn't.

(Shenzhen Daily January 18, 2008)