There is still much love in Asia for revolving restaurants. In
all honesty, the concept is not bad, quite enjoyable in fact in a
city like this, but the novelty has worn off. Enjoying a hearty
lunch while the city spins around can definitely be an interesting
experience.
Apparently first designed in 1959, the concept affords diners
with a rotating view of the surroundings.
From such a vantage point, guests can enjoy their meal without
feeling like the view is getting old.
The three most important factors, of course, when deciding where
to place such a fancy establishment are location, location and
location. No one wants a 360 degree view of wasteland, and having
such a place in the far reaches of Pudong can be a waste.
Food is apparently less of a concern as well, as anyone who has
been to the Oriental Pearl TV Tower eatery can attest to. It might
help if the buffet table was moved onto the moving section too.
The Radisson Hotel Shanghai New World has thankfully got both
ingredients right. Set right in the heart of the People's Square,
the view, even in the foggy weather the city is currently enjoying,
is though-provoking to say the least.
The juxtaposition of less modern (as opposed to old) Shanghai
with the postcard-esque modern monstrosities jutting out across the
pond lends itself to the sort of conversation people conjure when
they try to appear sophisticated.
When dining in a five-star hotel, talk of poverty in Africa or
repression in Iran does not sit well.
Radisson's spinning option, Epicure on 45, is now offering a
three-course business lunch set for nearby executives to enjoy a
leisurely meal break while enjoying a two-hour sightseeing
expedition of sorts. As with the a la carte menu, diners can pick
from Western, Indian and Japanese, with two choices for each that
change every week.
Much like the concept itself, the fare is a throwback to the
good old days.
This is international cuisine that the local business crowd will
easily recognize and recall from the halcyon days of their
youth.
Western audiences will also enjoy the retro food that has since
gone the way of the dodo in favor of low-sodium, health-obsessed
dishes.
The Western set was adequate and filling. Starting with a cream
of vegetable soup, the first course was creamy and well-flavored,
if a little salty, sprinkled with a good amount of crunchy
croutons.
The grilled seafood skewer was also swimming in beurre
blanc.
The white butter sauce was again packed so full of creamy
goodness that diners would be tempted to lick their plates. While
the pilaf rice was a tad dry, all problems were overcome with a
generous splash of sauce.
The seafood skewer was in fact grilled fish on a stick. Not an
overly exciting dish, but nothing to complain about either.
With sauce like that, Epicure on 45 could have served luncheon
meat and would still come out a winner.
Even dessert came with plenty of sauce. The apple pie was a
highlight, with good chunks of fruit and delicate pastry doused in
vanilla rum sauce.
At 98 yuan (US$13.50), the deal is a steal.
The Nanjing Road property's executive chef, Karl Beter, hails
from Austria and shows his age and experience by not going for the
latest fads and trends.
The lunch set clearly shows the focus of the 520-room hotel in
providing business solutions and dining options for its target
local audience, while at the same time giving overseas visitors an
affordable and enjoyable experience.
Address: 88 Nanjing Road
Tel: 021-6359-9999 ext 4210/4212
(Shanghai Daily January 15, 2008)
