As the January cold kicks in and all of us feel the post-Christmas
lull before the fire-cracking excitement of Chinese New Year, wine
lovers are on the look out for more warming wines. If fuller-bodied
whites and reds become more palatable in early winter, this time of
year suggests fortified wines. Sherry, Madeira and port are the
most famous examples. Mercifully, all of these are now available in
Beijing. But it's well to appreciate that each is an overall
category, within which many styles can be found. Each of these
styles have particular characteristics and attractions. Many also
match superbly with different cuisines, particularly Asian ones.
Sherry proper is made in Jerez, Spain, although other types of
"sherry-style" wine exist all across Spain and other countries. The
major types are Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado and Oloroso. A type
of yeast, called flor, gives Manzanillas and Finos a special
character. This helps them pair really well with salty and robust
foods including Spanish tapas and, surprisingly, Korean fare.
Amontillado is aged Fino, exhibiting more mature, nutty flavors.
All of these wines are generally dry (except when you see "Cream"
on the label which indicates a sweetened style). Olorosos, which
are also aged, can be either dry or sweet. They are not affected by
flor so have their own unique rich, nutty taste. In Beijing, ASC
carries the sherries of Emilio Lustau and Garvey; and Palette Vino
has the reliable Alvear. When buying sherry, look out for these
four styles. As for year, nearly all wines will be non-vintage
since sherry is made through the solera system, a system of
fractional blending from different vintages.
Madeira comes from the Portuguese island of the same name. In
the 18th and 19th centuries, Madeira became fashionable in America
and Britain when it was discovered that wine carried in ships
across the equator improved in flavor. The fierce heat changed the
wine, making it nutty and more flavorful. Nowadays, the romance of
sailing is gone and Madeira harnesses on-shore heating methods
instead. The various styles of Madeira are sometimes named after
the grape type: Sercial (dry), Verdelho (off-dry), Bual (slightly
sweet) and Malmsey or Malvasia (sweet, rich). Or they are
identified by a general style, such as Rainwater (lighter).
Madeiras can be very food-friendly: good with rich soups, cheeses
and Macanese food. Beijing's Cellar Le Pinot carries the wines of
the Broadbent Madeira Company, the only Madeira currently available
in China.
As for port, styles are arguably even wider. Vintage port needs
decades to become drinkable, so the industry developed "Late
Bottled Vintage": wines that are drinkable earlier because of their
special ageing process. There are also "Tawny Ports" that are aged
in wood for longer periods. These are tawny in color, nutty and
hugely drinkable. Basic ruby ports, soft in style, and also white
ports can make great aperitifs. Generally, these wines are better
represented in Beijing: Summergate has Dow, Torres offers Graham's
and ASC carries both Taylor's and Fonseca. Montrose has
Portuguese-owned producer Pocas on its list.
One advantage in drinking these wines is their staying power.
Not only are they warming, they generally keep for several weeks
after opening. Madeira is particularly robust, but heavier sherries
and most styles of port can be dipped into for at least a
fortnight: ideal wines for sharing with friends before (and during)
Chinese New Year.
(That's Beijing January 9, 2008)
