For some people, mostly from the northern hemisphere, Christmas
just isn't Christmas without sub-zero temperatures, icy winds and
multiple layers of thermal underwear. But anyone who has
overwintered in
Beijing will know
that conditions in the Chinese capital during the festive season
are often severe enough to challenge even the most die-hard of
polar explorers.
So, if you're not a big fan of frostbite, and your boss is
amenable, it's time to think about heading south to celebrate the
end of the year in more temperate climes.
In recent years the Chinese have gone a little Christmas-crazy.
While they may not be aware that they're technically rejoicing in
the birthday of Jesus Christ (an ignorance shared by many
westerners), China is a nation with a keen ability to assimilate
the best aspects of other cultures and adopt them to their own
tastes. At the very least, any excuse to let off a few firecrackers
is not to be sniffed at. The relatively recent Christmas holiday
frenzy has not restricted itself to big cities either; Santas are
popping up like mushrooms in shopping malls and town centers all
over the country, with Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer usually
upgraded to a gaggle of attractive young Chinese females handing
out goodies from a bulging sack.
Notwithstanding the good-natured Chinese willingness to embrace
Christmas as their own, for westerners in China at least
(especially the seasonally homesick), it's always nice to be in the
company of at least a few people who understand what all the fuss
is really about. As premier destinations on the Chinese tourist
circuit, Yunnan's Lijiang and Guangxi's Yangshuo are two great
places for Beijing residents to visit over Christmas, to enjoy the
company of like-minded Yuletide revelers, flee the harsher weather
of the north, and see the numerous sights minus the usual crowds of
the Chinese holiday period.
Lijiang's southerly latitude makes for warm winters, despite the
city's high elevation (2,400 meters). December to February is a dry
season, and nearly every day sees strong, warm sunshine. Daily
temperatures may scale the dizzy heights of 15 degrees Celsius, and
although the peaks of nearby mountains have a coating of snow, the
city itself rarely sees more than a couple of big falls a year.
Travelers unaccustomed to altitude should plan a relaxing day after
arrival to become acclimatized before heading off to higher
elevations or engaging in more strenuous exercise.
Despite its increasing popularity, first-time visitors to
Lijiang will welcome it as a break from the unfortunate
over-commercialization of many of China's other tourist hotspots.
Since a serious earthquake in 1996, which flattened much of the
city, millions of renminbi have been invested in rebuilding and
restoring the area using traditional local architecture. Lijiang
Old Town, which is where most visitors rightly choose to install
themselves, and which was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in
1999, is an alpine, slightly kitschy maze of narrow cobbled
streets, timber-frame buildings, stone bridges and burbling
waterways. The use of neon has mercifully been limited, and there
isn't a Starbucks in sight (touch wood).
Dance and music both have prominent roles to play in Naxi
culture, and there are several music houses in the Old Town where
traditional Naxi songs and dances are performed nightly. At other
times, impromptu performances may be given in the old market
square. The Me-Da-Tso and Ro-Ro-Tso are the two major folk dances
of the Naxi community. They use no instruments; the dancers moving
rhythmically to the sounds of some hauntingly beautiful chants and
ditties.
Lijiang Old Town has a plethora of restaurants and bars catering
to all manner of tastes and appetites; even those craving some
roast fowl action come December 25 won't be disappointed. Many
establishments have great locations next to fast flowing canals
inhabited by small shoals of golden fish, darting through the
current like liquid metal. Those looking to sample some local food
should try the delicious baba-thick flatbreads of wheat served with
savory or sweet fillings-a great breakfast alternative to
jiaozi or baozi or the ubiquitous banana pancake.
Across-the-bridge noodles (guoqiao mixian) are another
local specialty, and a warming way to counter an energy-draining
winter day in the mountains.
One must-see in Lijiang is the Black Dragon Pool Park (Heilong
Tan). The early morning view of the wind-ruffled park lake, ornate
pagoda and five-arched bridge, with the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
(Yulong Xueshan) forming a majestic backdrop, is a picture postcard
panorama. Also located inside the park is the Five Phoenix Tower
(Wufeng Lou), dating back to the Ming Dynasty, decorated with
colorful images of flying phoenixes.
Outside Lijiang some incomparable scenery awaits the
adventurous. The 5,500 meter Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, with its
obligatory chairlifts, is only 35 kilometers from Lijiang, and
offers breathtaking views over pale blue glaciers, steep-sided
valleys and rocky, snow-clad pinnacles. The renowned Tiger Leaping
Gorge (Hutiao Xia), where the mighty Yangzi River churns, surges
and eddies between precipitous rock faces (one face formed by a
side of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain), can be visited on a day trip
from Lijiang or hiked over the course of a few days.
Like Lijiang, Yangshuo, in neighboring Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, is a popular
backpacker hangout, and another great place to spend your Christmas
away from home in China. Although temperatures are cool, seldom
falling below 10 degrees Celsius, and there are a host of sights
and activities to keep winter visitors occupied. Located on the
highly picturesque Li River amid an awesome cluster of limestone
pinnacles, there's still enough of the town's charm remaining to
make it a good base from which to sample some of Guangxi's finest
karst landscapes.
West Street (Xi Jie), bisecting Yangshuo, is the pulsating heart
of the town, alive with a huge range of cafes and bars. It is also
lined with numerous small shops and stands selling souvenirs and
street snacks, and cheap, comfortable hotels (even cheaper in the
winter). Chinese teenagers mingle with a young laowai crowd in
Internet cafes, feasting off apple pie, T-bone steaks, ice cream
sundaes and other hard-to-come-by staples of the western diet.
Although years away from representing the real China, and
scorned by many for its lack of authenticity, West Street is
undeniably a good place to kick back, satisfy any cravings for
high-calorie western dishes, and also sample some local Chinese
food. Beer fish (pijiu yu) is a Yangshuo specialty, and tastes far
better than it sounds. In such an "East-meets-West" environment,
don't be surprised, if you're out strolling before Christmas, to
see stallholders wearing Santa wigs, doorways decorated with
colored tinsel and fairy lights, and even roving bands of Chinese
carolers, belting out the classics into the still night air. For
the homesick it might not compare favorably to years gone by, but
it's a pretty fair second best.
Yangshuo is a place to enjoy the outdoors and soak up the
natural beauty of the surroundings. Getting mobile is essential,
but mountain bikes are inexpensive and available for hire at many
hotels. After an essential check for roadworthiness, just pick up a
map, fill a rucksack, find a trail and head off. There are also
options for those who like to keep two feet on the ground. Its
local geology makes Yangshuo the caving and climbing capital of
China, with plenty of shops for purchasing or hiring equipment and
picking up local guides. A cruise along the stunning Li River is
recommended, and a bamboo boat ride along the smaller but equally
scenic Yulong River is a quieter and more private way to appreciate
the dramatic splendor of the environment.
Wherever you end up at Christmas this year, if you're in China,
it will likely prove to be a festive occasion. And, according to a
recent survey, China is now making the most Santas in the world, so
there'll probably be at least one other white-bearded foreign guy
attending your party come Christmas Day.
(Chinadaily.com via btmbeijing.com, December 4, 2006)