Many of the better city restaurants are already fully booked for the traditional "nianyefan" family meal on Chinese New Year's Eve.

Hopeful customers are being turned down, even though the Spring Festival is still nearly two months away.

"I didn't expect the reservation peak to come so early this year, so I just called at the same time as I did in the last several years," said Fang Qi, a 29-year-old teacher.

"But the result was that I was refused again and again."

In Chinese tradition, "nianyefan" is more than just a meal: it's a reunion time for the whole family, similar to Christmas in the West.

Until a few years ago, almost every family in the city ate at home, while restaurants shut for the evening.

Now about 5 million locals enjoy the New Year dinner at a restaurant every year.

Restaurateurs said their business had boomed in the past five years.

Tables have sold out even earlier this year because the Spring Festival, on January 22, is a week earlier than last year.

"We started to accept 'nianyefan' reservations at the start of November and all the 100-odd tables were booked within 15 days," said a manager surnamed Yuan of Xin Kai Yuan Restaurant on Yunnan Road S., a Hangzhou-based chain eatery.

"To guarantee our quality and service, we won't have a second round of dinner service, which usually starts from 8 pm," he said.

Things are similar at other big-name restaurants, like Meiyuancun on Yan'an Road M., Xinghualou on Fuzhou Road and Laofengge on Huaihai Road. Many tables were reserved by big families of three generations.

Table prices range from 1,000 yuan (US$120) to 1,500 yuan.

The restaurants, in addition to including their famous dishes in the menu, also try to serve some new dishes.

A staffer surnamed Shen at the Laofengge restaurant said work meant she hadn't spent New Year's Eve with her family for a couple of years.

"But I'm still happy because the boss will invite us to eat 'nianyefan' and I can get a big bonus," she said.

Smaller restaurants are not faring quite so well.

When tables of renowned restaurants are booked out, some people would rather eat at home than at small restaurants.

Despite his worry about not being able to get a booking for his family, Fang won't consider small eateries.

(Shanghai Daily December 1, 2003)