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Ages before we grasped our spin around the sun, the earliest efforts at organizing the passage of days involved looking at the moon. While the lunar system is imperfect, understanding phased shapes of light reflected off earth's original satellite was how ancient civilizations recorded time.
Thus, celebrating the lunar new year is one of humankind's oldest traditions and continues to be a brilliant excuse to party, travel, or once again start afresh.
On Friday night we dismount the Horse and get herded into the year of the Sheep. Calling it a Goat is also fine, however this is one of two animals used in the Vietnamese derivation of the 12-year cycle of Chinese signs. Likewise is their year of the Cat, a Rabbit in China. You'll also hear this called year of the Ram, just like early 2005 will be referred to as year of the Rooster rather than Chicken.
Beijing Weekend hopes you'll indulge in the contact sport of the miaohui (temple fair) remembering to use the phrases Gongxi fa cai! Wanshi ruyi! Xin nian kuaile! respective wishes for wealth, smooth dealings, and happy a new year as you bump into the merry making masses at Baiyuguan, Dongyuemiao and Changdian, three of the best places to go in the central city.
Go for Gold
Aside from traditional temple hopping at these Daoist venues, new years are one of the rare occasions when street fairs happen in Beijing. Changdian, meaning Factory Suburb, is an old street fair now a couple of years into a revival following a hiatus of several decades.
It starts on Nanxinhua Dajie, south of the Hepingmen loop line subway stations, then runs to Liulichang or Glazed Ware Factory. This famed tourist destination is where the green and golden tiles adorning the Forbidden City were originally fired in the early 1400s back when it was on the outskirts of the city.
The street fair dates to the 18th century when the area's abandoned kiln was first taken over by book shops, artwork and curio dealers.
The fair was once a big face building and dropping occasion among renowned collectors. They congregated here at this time of year to see who was adding or subtracting rare and valuable items from collections.
Aside from the wealthy, the event was a public gathering for the populace to promenade in their finest clothes after fulfilling family obligations.
With money given by elders burning a hole in their pocket, Changdian offered a plethora of ways to eliminate disposable income. It was a kid's paradise with a superabundance of toys and treats. The main street will be thronged with costumed performers, lion dances, food and trinket hawkers. How long you want to mill about is a function of crowd size.
On the alley east of Liulichang is an obscure little Fire God Temple worth visiting should you collect temples the way some bird watchers have life lists. At one time jewel dealers plied their trade here.
Rub the Monkey
If you attend only one traditional event in Beijing during the Spring Festival, try the Baiyunguan, or Taoist White Cloud Monastery. The experience is like smoking a cigarette: you'll either become addicted by the buzz or wholly uncomfortable with the rituals and environment.
The sheer volume of people at this massively popular event makes it a losing proposition for those who hate crowds. The secret to event management lies in timing: visit only on the first day of the fair (Friday) or its last next week; at other times arrive early (around 9 am), or don't bother. Aside from this warning, embrace adventure, be safe and go for it!
It's re'nao (warmly crowded) because this is Beijing's most genuine miaohui. Rubbing the monkey at the temple's shanmen (front gate) pictured here is one of many old traditions alive and well throughout the Baiyunguan. The origin of this practice is clouded in superstitious antiquity, but as participants queuing up an hour (or more) for less than five seconds of tactile communion with the stone simian will tell you "it doesn't hurt to try." These sentiments also apply when supplicating Gods of Wealth, Health, Childbirth, Success, or the individual deity responsible for your birth in the 60 year cycle.
Parking is a pain, so jump in a cab and say, "Baiyunguan Miaohui." The simplest pathway is to head due west from Qianmen Xidajie. The street changes names several times but just continue straight, passing the canal and spaghetti junction incline. Look for signs saying Baiyunguan Lu shortly after the overpass. Get out and make your way up the street, turning right on Baiyunguan Jie.
If you get disoriented by the crowds, point and simultaneously ask any non-vendor: "miaohui zenmezou?" (which way to the temple fair?).
It's Got the Lot!
Beijing's Dongyue Miao, or Taoist Temple of the Eastern Peak (Mt Tai in Shandong), located on the north Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, is a viable alternative for the visitor craving a taste of the traditional with smaller crowds and fewer hassles when driving.
This place is highly recommended for its ambience: faith, things to buy, entertainment, food, classic architecture - it's the most efficient package for one stop cultural amusement in the capital.
From the Yuan dynasty (1271-1368) until 1958, this site was the most frequently visited temple during the lunar new year. It did a 40-year stint as a Chaoyang police station until reverting back to its original form and functions in 1999. It continues to get better and more popular each passing year.
The Jade Emperor dominates this temple, however 70-plus small bureaucratic departments enable a variety of new year wishes to be made on small square tablets hung around the courtyards.
While the peak season for attendance is Spring Festival, locals (foreign and domestic) should make a mental note that there's said to be a temple fair held here on the 15th of every lunar month - that's always the day with a full moon at night.
(Beijing Weekend January 31, 2003)
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