The Spring Festival, or Chun Jie holiday season is almost upon us. Many Beijingers, both local and laowai, flee the capital scene to escape briefly elsewhere - usually warmer climates. Meanwhile, for those who bemoan being here for chunjie, take heart: Beijing will be a blast.
Vacationing in the capital is an excellent opportunity to see some of the old Chinese customs that have survived and now thrive in modern China. Traditional temple fairs (miaohui) and contemporary events in other venues keep getting better and better.
Basic tips for survival include the following: store up a three day supply of the stuff you like/need to have around the house; know if/for how long your local favorite shops and restaurants will be closed; plan an itinerary of activities to keep you away from excessive DVD indulgence. When going to many of the open-air events listed below, do not let the sheer volume of people freak you out.
As we get herded into the Year of the Sheep (or Goat), make a set of lunar new year's resolutions to start on February first. These can reinforce the solar vows for self-improvement made a month ago. Instead of sheepish guilt when January's resolutions fail to be realized, Around Town advocates goading yourself to check out what Beijing has to offer in another version of New Year celebrations.
Bells take their toll
Going to Zhonglou (Bell Tower) in Dongcheng district or Dazhongsi (Big Bell Temple) in Haidian district on the night of January 31 offers a truly unique way of "ringing in the new year." In years past at both locations you've been able to pony up some cash then take a whack at one of Ming emperor Yongle's (r.1403-1424) famous huge bells hanging in the city.
Once you've swung the hammer, listen for the sound xie of the Chinese word for shoe as the bell reverberates.
Murky legends connected with both of the massive bells involve a sacrificial maiden who went into the bell's molten bronze mix when cast, save for one of her slippers. The tale rings truer when hearing the bell ring.
Those who are uneasy with the legend might prefer to climb the Bell Tower's companion, Gulou (Drum Tower) before midnight for a chance to thump on some large drums or catch the percussion show.
These are not part of the traditional Chinese celebrations that attract widespread attention so the crowds are thankfully small. Most Beijing residents on New Year's Eve are home with family gobbling jiaozi (dumplings), naughtily lighting fireworks, playing majiang, or have simply glued themselves to the tube watching one of the many scintillating extravaganzas that characterize Chun Jie television programming.
If you go, bundle up; notwithstanding the name, Spring Festival, it will be especially frosty should you chose to ring either of the bells at midnight. Aside from the cold, be prepared to appear on Chinese TV broadcast nationwide as news.
Enter the dragon
Longtan Gongyuan (Dragon Pool Public Park) is an ideal place to see flocks of urbanites out and about during the year of the Sheep. The venue is an early post-Liberation (1949) land reclamation project done by the municipal government between 1952-57, transforming what was once one of ancient Beijing's worst dumps into a viable public space.
Longtan during Chun Jie is the only time and place in Beijing where you can see a pack of camels without too much worry over second hand smoke. Until the mid-20th century, one of the more picturesque features of this city were long trains of Bactrian(double-humped) camels trekking in from the countryside toting coal to heat denizens' homes.
During the Spring Festival, these ships of the desert stage a brief comeback as a ride hauling kids and parents instead of commodities. A great reminder on a bit of old Beijing now long gone.
Past and present
Another set of miaohui takes place in several of the former Ming era (1368-1644) altars established by the emperor Jiajing (1522-67) around Beijing in 1530 that now serve as public parks. Here's a brief introduction of events at Ditan, Tiantan and Ritan.
The temple fair at Ditan Park, Altar of the Earth, is mostly a melange of food stalls, trinkets, carnival games and events of simple distraction. It always attracts large crowds with part of its draw being a reenactment of court rituals that originally took place at the summer solstice.
If a chance to view the pageantry of the imperial past is what excites you, skip the carnival atmosphere of Ditan and head to Tiantan. You won't find snacks, blaring music and pony rides, but the line of costumed performers, including an ersatz emperor, is an interesting sight.
There is also new, albeit very sedate, temple fair scheduled for Ritan Park.
Sight seeing choices
If you speak Chinese, call the numbers given below for event times over the holiday.
Drum and Bell Towers (Gulou, Zhonglou) Northern end of Di'anmenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District
Tel: 6401-2674 or 6403-5252
Big Bell Temple (Dazhongsi)
North Side of Beisanhuan Xilu, Jia No. 31 Haidian District
Tel: 6255-0819 or 6255-0843
Dragon Pool Park (Longtan Gongyuan) Longtan Lu No. 8 Chongwen District
Tel: 6511-4336 or 6511-4337
Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) East of Tianqiao Lu, Chongwen District
Tel: 6702-2242 or 6703-6062
Altar of the Earth Park (Ditan) East of Di'anmenwai Dajie, North of the Yonghegong, Dongcheng District
Tel: 6421-4657
Altar of the Sun Park (Ritan)
Guanghua Lu at the north end of Jianhua Lu, Chaoyang District
Tel: 6502-1743
(Beijing Weekend January 25, 2003)
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