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Beijing is a winter city. Although autumn is generally praised as the "golden time" among the city's four seasons, winter brings out the true character of Beijing.
Winter in Beijing lasts five months from November to March. There are three months where the average temperature stays below zero.
During that time, people wrapped in layers become almost shapeless as they try to fend off the constant cold.
Greetings tend to be quick and to the point in sharp contrast to the loud, expansive ones typical of the rest of the year.
The real fun of Beijing's winter can only be found outside. The recent snowfall and drop in temperature set the scene perfectly. Those brave enough to face the chill headed out in search of frozen lakes to indulge their love of skating.
Although its exact origins in Beijing are uncertain, it is certain that skating has enjoyed long popularity among its residents, regardless of their social and economical status.
There is a great description about an imperial skating scene in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) in a Chinese film shot in the 1980s. The emperor sat on a special cushioned chair next to a stove with court officials and servants standing by.
In front is a huge rink formed on a lake of the imperial park, on which, hundreds of court attendants, dressed in bright celebrative costumes demonstrated skating.
This was one of the special occasions in a year when the emperor could show his grace and spend happy times with his subjects. For ordinary Beijingers, skating is never a costly pursuit.
The Shichahai Lake rink, across the north gate of Beihai Park, has always been one of the most popular places for them to go skating.
At the start of last century, formal skates were rarely seen as only few people could afford them. Most people glided on creatively fashioned "skates" of different styles made by themselves.
They were very simple compared with today's standards. They would often feature a pair of pedals with a "blade" attached.
People did not change into skating boots as they do today but simply tied the pedals on to their shoes with cord.
Even during the "cultural revolution" (1966-76) skating remained a popular winter outdoor activity for children starved of alternatives.
Skating offered children and school students fun in winter as a "project" that required careful thought from start to finish.
First they needed to search for proper materials to make the skates. Some interesting variations on the theme were inevitably produced.
As people in their 40s nowadays recall, the best skates at that time were made of an iron triangle screwed to a wooden pedal whose sides were drilled with holes for cord to be laced through. Others simply fastened two iron bars to thickened soles with screws or iron wire.
Today, at a venue like Shichahai, skates are available for rental at around 10 yuan (US$1.2) a pair.
The thickness of ice is checked for safety reasons. Sections under 50cm thick are fenced off.
After paying your 10 yuan you can skate as long as you want. There are vendors selling candied haws and other winter snacks so you don't even need to leave the rink when you want to fuel up.
In addition to Shichahai, you can also skate at the Kunming Lake at the Summer Palace, and at several other small ponds in parks and on university campuses in Beijing.
The most famous is at Peking University where admission is free. Skates can be rented from nearby vendors. Before you know it, you'll be wobbling along the surface, following a winter tradition that dates back generations.
(Beijing Weekend January 9, 2003)
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