La Cave (rhymes with mauve) is a quiet refuge in a noisy city – the first international branch of this Korean chain.

Down the stairs from Frank's Place, La Cave seems perfect for an intimate encounter or relaxed conversation with friends.

Boasting 150 different vintages ranging from RMB 200-2,000 a bottle, La Cave caters to the Wangjing Koreans. Nonetheless, patrons of all extraction will delight in the civilized atmosphere, elegant fare, and cheery house wine (RMB 60/glass). The short menu holds some gems. The cheese and cracker platters (RMB 68-118) are exquisite, with real Genoa salami and olives thrown in for good measure.

The atmosphere is tasteful, if a bit cold. White stucco and brick columns create discrete dining spaces with swishes of Mediterranean style. Heavy wood tables are, according to the owner, made of ancient Shanxi gates. A patron can expect attentive and competent service. The all-Korean staff speaks adequate English and Chinese and are very solicitous.

La Cave runs a lunch special from 11.30am-3pm (entree plus glass of house wine, RMB 78-88). The bar reopens at 5.30pm and runs until 2am with the kitchen open until midnight.

Location: Jiangtai Xilu (west of the Rosedale Hotel), Chaoyang District

Opening hours: Daily 11.30am-2am.

Tel: 010-6437-1242

(That's Beijing December 24, 2007)