In recent years, Yan'an has again become a travel spotlight in China as the major centre of Red Tourism, a travel trail promoted by China's central government to boost economic development in those revolutionary bases that are usually land-locked and lagged behind economically.
Once a small, sleepy town in the far northern region of northwest China's Shaanxi Province, in the heart of this region's Loess Plateau, Yan'an would have remained in obscurity if the biggest notables in modern Chinese history had not intervened. In 1936, it became the final destination of the legendary Long March, the expedition of over 25,000 li, or roughly 8,000 miles made by the Chinese Red Army. For 13 years, until the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, the Communist Party of China took a respite there.
By 1950, the tourism industry in Yan'an boomed, as most Party members made the trek to pay their tributes to the greats of the revolution.
However, over the last few decades, the town has returned to its relatively quiet roots until recently, when Red Tourism has become red hot.
Dubbed "The Cradle of New China," today Yan'an, not very big, yet prosperous, is very much a tourist and market centre nestled amid the hills. Many have benefited much from the riches of the surrounding oil fields. It even has an airport of its own, making the city accessible within about one hour from Beijing.
Tourists are mainly PLA soldiers on induction trips, Party members, or interested foreign tourists.
Most of the sights in town are related to the period of the 1930s and 1940s when the Party was in charge here. Thankfully despite the amount of tourists that passed through the town in the second half of last century, perhaps in awe of the solemnity of this region, little has been disturbed in the original style of the town. It is the older sections of the town, the scenery around and the enticing socialist architecture that is interesting as a one-day tour.
You can find well preserved homes here that used to accommodate such legendary figures as Mao Zedong, Zhu De and Zhou Enlai. Some of the furniture is original while some pieces are copies. From these bits and pieces, you can get some ideas of the austere lifestyle they led during those years, while they followed their passion to build a better world.
Under strict economic difficulties, the red army, also known as the Eighth Route Army at the time, started a campaign called the General Production Movement. That means everyone had to face the music, with soldiers and officers participating in production and spinning, to ensure their daily supply. High-ranking officials were no exception, with Zhou Enlai known for his excellent spinning skills as an example.
It was a time of complete idealism. Officers and soldiers alike lived on rations. As Edgar Snow described, they lived on unimaginably small amounts of food, and yet they stood proud and in good spirits.
But apart from its revolutionary past there is another reason that makes trip to Yan'an worthwhile: This is the land that has nurtured and generated a Chinese culture that dates back as early as 5,000 years ago.
If the city of Yan'an is too urbanized to find the earliest traces of civilization in China, take a cab for a half-hour drive to the nearby town of Ansai, where life is loaded with traditions that go back beyond living memory. Culture and imagination roam free and unrestricted and are best expressed in the paintings by the local farmers and traditional paper cutting.
If you are lucky, you may have the chance to appreciate the shadow plays that have survived for centuries and are still popular among locals. The Wei Shadow Play Troupe with three generations of the Wei family working on it is one of the best local teams. The 76-year-old grandfather is one of few living artists who can perform the whole repertoire. You may arrange a show with them during your visit to Yan'an through their website www.weisp.net.
Must-see spots:
The Pagoda
In China, everyone knows it as a landmark of Yan'an, the base of the revolution. It used to be found on posters and on one of the most popular cigarette brands. But few people know that it was an ancient pagoda built in the Tang dynasty (618-907), more than 1,300 years ago. The pagoda itself is 44 meters high, of octagonal structure with nine stories. You can get to the top but the brick pagoda is quite a climb.
Yangjialing Village
It was in this historical site, about three-kilometers northwest of Yan'an that the CPC Central Committee led the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression (1937-45). At the entrance is an auditorium, a vaulted brick and wood structure. The small building at the rear used to be the office of the Central Committee's General Affairs Department. An exhibition hall has been built there to show the revolutionary activities of the leaders and the people in Yan'an.
Mao Zedong and other leaders of the revolution had their cave residences on a small hill in the north. A lot of interesting anecdotes took place here. Premier Zhou broke his right arm at the gate of his residence here when his horse tripped over the threshold; Chairman Mao and his last wife Jiang Qing spent their wedding night there, and another premier Li Peng, son of a martyr, was brought up here by Zhou Enlai.
Date Garden
This site, 10 kilometers northwest of Yan'an, used to be where the Secretariat of CPC Central Committee operated. Here, Mao wrote many of his revolutionary works. It is also home to an exhibition hall where a whole range of Mao's photos are on display, starting from his teen years to later life. Full of trees and flowers, it is a beautiful place to visit.
Cool Hill (Mt Qingliangshan)
During the War of Resistance, the Xinhua News Agency, the Xinhua Broadcasting Station, and Jiefang Ribao (Liberation Daily) all had their offices here. There is a stone cave on this hill called Ten-Thousand Buddha Cave (Wanfodong), which was carved during the Tang and Song (960-1279) dynasties. It contains more than 10,000 Buddhist sculptures. The Moon Well (Yue'erjing), the Piba Bridge, and many other scenic spots with fancy names boast relative, beautiful legends.
Yan'an University
Founded in 1937 by the communist party, the university used to be the most prestigious during the revolution. It has since expanded to include two campuses. The old one is well worth a look as many cave houses are still kept for use among other modern buildings. In the playground, it is interesting to find that Ansai drum performances and wushu are included in the students' physical exercise programs.
How to get there:
By train: Take T41 (17:10-06:40) from Beijing West Railway Station to Xi'an. Then take a bus for a four-hour ride from Xi'an to Yan'an.
By air: Direct flight (HU7585, HU7586) between Beijing International Airport to Yan'an takes off every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Sunday.
Accommodation: As a tourist centre and a national level travel destination, Yan'an provides standard hotel services, with a three-star one (Yaodong Hotel) built on hills providing cave rooms.
(China Daily June 23, 2006)
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