Fed up with pounding the same streets, going to the same places, doing the same things? Then take a trip on the Beijing metro line 13 and discover the city outside the city. Line 13 runs from Dongzhimen to Xizhimen, or the other way around depending on where you live. Stretching out into Beijing's northern suburbs the line traverses a diverse range of landscapes and lifestyles, taking you away from all the usual claustrophobia of city life.
Boarding at Dongzhimen for the princely sum of three yuan, it's not worth getting off until Shaoyaoju as this is the first vantage point to look back at the city and get the feeling that you are leaving it all behind. Shaoyaoju is a station before its time set amongst scrubland, a housing estate and some underused roads, it is approachable by a broken pathway or footbridge.
Buy another ticket and get back on heading north as trees and blue skies (192 so far this year) replace cars and concrete. It's probably best to head straight to Beiyuan as there is little in between, as the train races past Wanghe Bridge on the fourth ring road and the striking verdigris green LPG storage plant.
Beiyuan station is surrounded by middle-class serviced apartment blocks whose occupants' aspirations are belied by the decrepit children's amusement park that stands immediately opposite the station's entrance. The park has the air of a run down seaside resort in wintertime with rides that look well past their sell-by date, while a large metal circus tent, once the pride of trapeze artistes, is now just a home for the birds. Further exploration towards the rear of the park takes you into Guodu Pet Park.
The park is alive with the sounds of dogs barking, as owners drag their pooches over the dog assault course. Nearby two large exhibition halls often play host to animal shows where affluent Beijingers showcase their pets and spend large amounts of money on them. Nearby, local children play with bricks atop piles of soil.
Back on the train the line doglegs northwest toward the hills surrounding Beijing and Lishuiqiao station. On exiting the station you are bombarded by the cacophony of moto-taxi riders touting for fares, and to be honest there's no better way to see the area. Anywhere from five to ten yuan will get you a good twenty minutes on the back of one of these, with the rider acting as a tour guide, depending on how good your Chinese is. The air is full of coal and traffic fumes and the smell of dust, but is still surprisingly fresh. There are cranes everywhere as Lishuiqiao gears up to play host to the 2008 Olympics, a large part of which will take place here. Lishuiqiao is at the vanguard of Beijing's development and is well worth a visit. Weave back through the fast food stalls and moto-taxis and back onto the metro as it heads through single storey dwellings and an old film studio.
Huilongguan is a massive housing development that has sprung up over the last few years. In fact, it is so big it is served by all three of the stations that sit on the northern most stretch of Line 13. Armed with this knowledge it is advisable to alight at Longze, turn right out of the station and take the first left about two hundred meters down the road. This is the start of Yuzhi Xilu, the main drag of the area that over its three segments has a small market, shops and then restaurants. Though there is not much to see here, it is clean, new and has an air of excitement. Most residents come from outside of Beijing and in their efforts to create a new life for themselves have created a unique atmosphere. Being half way around Line 13, it is a good place for a spot of lunch and the far end of Yuzhi Xilu is well endowed with eateries hailing from almost every province of China. Keep an eye out for the German style clock tower.
Back on board and it's left turn south as the metro hits Haidian district. By-passing Xierqi station is recommended. The next stop, Shangdi has coffee shops and swish apartments and is home to companies such as Siemens and Lenovo. For fifteen yuan a motor-taxi will take you for a tour of the tech district and then (cheating a bit), they will take you to Wudaokou, past Yuanminyuan and the prestigious Qinghua and Beijing Universities.
Wudaokou is an ideal place to either end your journey or take a rest before heading off for the final leg of Line 13. Wudaokou offers a whole range of options, from taking in a movie at the cinema, doing a bit of shopping in one of the many trendy shops there or maybe just sipping a gin and tonic at LUSH and watching the world go by at the crossroads below.
Next stop Zhichun Road, a built up area but not a lot going on here. Beihang University has a nice campus where the hubbub of city life can be left behind for a while. Unless you want a break or want to go to Zhonguancun don't stay too long or simply by pass this stop altogether.
Last stop but one, Dazhongsi, home of Jinwuxing (5 gold stars, like the flag) market, a huge single storey complex that sells everything from window frames to pilots' helmets. Jinwuxing is rarely visited by foreigners, so it is still a good place to pick up a bargain.
Last stop Xizhimen where you can pick up the loop line 2, get a bus or hail a taxi to take you back home or maybe onto Sanlitun, if you still have any energy left.
Cost: 3 yuan (US$0.37) every time you board the train; 15 yuan (US$1.85) for lunch consisting of a bowl of fish zhou and one bottle of red tea ; 25 yuan (US$3.08) moto-taxi fares; 30 yuan (US$3.70) one G&T
Total:73 yuan (US$9)
Time: 5-6 hours
(China Daily October 21, 2005)
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