On a group of islands off Thailand's Andaman coast, a tribe of nomadic fishermen is only just returning to the sea more than four months after their ancient beliefs saved many of them from the tsunami.
"I am so happy, I finally have my life back," said Moy, a Moken sea gypsy, as she pointed seawards from her bamboo hut to where her husband and son were fishing for the squid and sea bass that have sustained this way of life for hundreds of years.
Until mid-April, the 13 families in this village on the jungle-clad island of Phra Tongam had been living on the mainland in temporary accommodation - plywood cabins with corrugated metal roofs -- where they were fed by relief agencies as they waited for funds to be approved and boats to be replaced. The cabins are mostly empty now. But the boat yard next door is a hive of activity. Each of the slender, high-prowed boats produced for the sea gypsies has been named "Tsunami" in numerical sequence.
"They just want there to be a memory of what happened," said Salisa Petnoy of the Action Aid charity network, which is helping to finance the boat building.
The animist Moken have lived for generations in coastal areas and islands off Thailand and Myanmar, often spending months at a time on their boats.
On December 26, when the sea receded mysteriously before the tsunami struck, Moken knew from their tribal lore this was a warning sign to flee to higher ground.
While the Moken's sense of relief at the return to normality is palpable, there's also a feeling that more could have been done for a group so marginalised that its members are not recognized as Thai citizens.
One family in Moy's village lost their father to the tsunami, the mother is pregnant and there is no boat.
"I don't think it's fair. I see other groups getting much more help, but they are prepared to ask. We don't ask," said Moy.
"The help took too long to come, but what I really want now is to find a way of helping my neighbor."
Agonizing wait
The lack of formal education and citizenship partly explains Moken reluctance to lock horns with government officials. Moy's son-in-law said he was now working as a builder on a new school for the island. His boat had not been replaced.
"They told me only long-standing residents would get compensation. I came here recently to get married, so I didn't register," he said. The marriage was seven years ago. Further down the coast on the island of Kor Kao, Thai fishermen are not back at sea either.
They too have been in temporary housing since their beachfront cottages were destroyed by the giant waves.
"I can't wait to get back to the sea," said Wassana Sinsub, who lost 22 friends when the tsunami swept up to 3 kilometers inland. His new boat, identical to that of the Moken, lies protected by palm trees from the blistering sun. It was built by his uncle, the only man Wassana trusted with such a delicate task.
But there is another problem - he must wait for the motor to come from the mainland. It will be three more agonizing weeks.
Even then he will have to wait for an island elder to pronounce it safe to return to the water.
The fishermen put a brave face on it, but there is high anxiety over the many false tsunami alarms.
"We still don't feel completely comfortable about going back into the water because of the memories it holds," said Wassana.
His new house is being built 1 kilometer from the beach. Even here signs of devastation abound.
One of Wassana's friends picked up the skull of a water buffalo washed on to the site by the violent rainstorms which periodically take the edge off the sweltering heat.
"Tsunami victim," he said and gently put back the skull.
There is little attempt made to hide evidence of misfortune. What the fishermen are most ready to discuss is their concern that funding for house rebuilding will run out.
Now that the boats are almost ready, the Thai fishermen are looking forward to regaining their self-sufficiency. But if aid money dries up, and most has come from overseas charities, they will be left with just the skeletons of their new homes.
(China Daily May 12, 2005)
