Freelance graphic designer Michelle Leong bought her first cheongsam when she was 23. It was tailor-made in Hong Kong in 2000 and cost her just over $100. Says the 26-year-old: "A Caucasian friend of mine wanted one and, out of fun, I had one made too."

Though she never thought cheongsams were fashionable, she was pleasantly surprised to find it looked much nicer on her than she had imagined.

"I think it's because it requires the wearer to stand tall in an upright posture, so it gives the wearer a sense of confidence and poise," she says.

Ms Leong is not alone in her appreciation of the distinguished and traditional robe, also known as the qipao in Mandarin. In recent times, the cheongsam, which means long dress in Cantonese, has taken baby steps in the international fashion arena.

A few seasons back, designers like Roberto Cavalli and Gucci showed cheongsam and variants like a cheongsam mini-dress, which created a small splash with the style.

On the homefront, the style, once popular with expatriates, is no longer so, says a spokesman for cheongsam specialist Shanghai Tang.

Instead, it is Singaporean women, especially those in their mid-20s, who are warming to the idea of wearing one.

Attributing its fashion cachet to the revival of chinoiserie chic, he adds that Asian women no longer see the cultural identity and previously-musty heritage of cheongsam as being negative.

He says: "Women are traveling more, are better-educated and more into their own culture than before. The irony, though, is that it has taken the Western world to show them the beauty of a cheongsam."

In the Wong Kar Wai film, In The Mood For Love (2000), Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung helped revive Western interest in the dress.

Worn with a rod-straight posture and a certain insouciance, the cheongsam in luxurious silk became a white-hot fashion item.

Even before her though, the feminine garment had already captured Western imaginations with the 1961 movie, The World Of Suzie Wong.

The tart with a heart, Suzie Wong is the prostitute character in the movie, played by Nancy Kwan.

And it is no secret that most men adore the cheongsam for the same reasons women do -- it flatters a curvaceous figure and shows off acres of limbs.

Almost five centuries old, the cheongsam came from the classless and androgynous long robe worn by the qi, or banner people.

Four basic elements define a cheongsam, a garment that New York designer Vivienne Tam once said makes a woman feel taller, slimmer, straighter, more refined and elegant.

A cheongsam has to have a mandarin collar; a diagonal opening, usually fastened on the right side with Chinese frog-styled buttons; side slits and a slim fit.

In her book, The Cheongsam (2000), author Hazel Clark claims that the sartorial style has evolved over time. Clark is a professor of design at the School of Art Institute in Chicago.

It was first popularized by movie stars in Shanghai, who wore tight-fitted versions of the dress on screen in the 1920s.

During the Cultural Revolution, the dress was banned as the idea of pusu -- or modest dressing -- was considered best. Shanghainese tailors then fled to Hong Kong, which led to the garment's subsequent popularity rising there.

In the 1950s, influenced by Western styles, hemlines rose to mid-calf. Bust and waist darts also cinched the figure in true 1950s style.

A decade later, the cheongsam saw stiff competition from factory-made, ready-to-wear Western-style clothes. Since it requires custom tailoring, it lost favor to its bland but easier to manufacture rival.

Thereafter, it was swiftly reduced to a sartorial stereotype sported by waitresses in Chinese restaurants or Miss Chinatown participants.

However, fashion designer Thomas Wee feels that petite Asian women look good in a cheongsam as their body proportions are right for the garment.

Mr Wee, who lectures in fashion at the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts, says: "People who are very tall or have a strong build can upset the proportion. A good cheongsam really must be tailored to fit."

If you plan on going traditional this Chinese New Year, heed fashion stylist Vik Lim's advice for updating the look.

"Opt for a cheongsam top or any top with some cheongsam detailing. Avoid the standard brocade versions as they can make you look old."

GETTING THE BEST FIT

For short women, avoid boxy cuts with shoulder pads as they weigh you down. Too long a dress will also have the reverse effect and make you look shorter.

Women with broad shoulders should avoid shoulder pads as they will make them look top-heavy. Instead, opt for softer fabrics like silk to soften the silhouette.

Skinny women can go for brocade which can give more form and curves to their body structure. A brocade is a heavy silk fabric with a raised design on it, often sewn on with gold or silver threads.

For those with flabby arms, choose a cheongsam with three-quarter sleeves to hide the excess flesh.

Women with short necks should pick a cheongsam with a lower collar so that it helps make the neck look longer. On the other hand, women with longer necks can look stunning in a cheongsam cut with a high collar.

For those who are disproportionate in shape, with either a heavy top or a heavy bottom, wear cheongsam separates.

Top-heavy women should avoid big, contrasting prints on the cheongsam top. Choose a simple one-color top.

A straight-cut skirt with a side slit is ideal for women who have large bottoms.

(China Daily January 20, 2004)