The ancient Laotian capital of Luang Prabang, situated on Lao's life-line, the Mekong River, is 500 kilometers upriver from the modern capital of Vientiane.
Luang Prabang is the most historic town in Laos. It was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Lane Xang for more than 800 years and the town still retains some of the most traditional aspects of Laotian life. Both the guide book and people who have been to Luang Praban assured visitors that the Lao New Year in mid-April is most stunningly observed there.
Water fighting
After an uneventful drive what first impressed visitors was not the sight of the town's many temples, but the Western tourists carrying big water guns and local children carrying buckets and even tubs of water along the streets. In Laos, the new year is also known as the Water Festival, when people pour water over one another to show respect and express best wishes. But it really seems to be just one big water fight going on everywhere with only one purpose -- to make sure everyone gets thoroughly saturated. Locals even add flour and red dye to the buckets of water they throw over each other.
Only two things can save one from a water attack: an umbrella and a camera. So, when a tourist was taking pictures, people would -- usually -- cease the water war for a while. But that didn't always work with younger children.
Grand parade
But what makes Luang Prabang's New Year celebrations really delightful is the traditional ceremony of the grand procession from Wat Tat Noi to Wat Xieng Thong -- probably the most historic and enchanting Buddhist monastery in the entire country.
The procession started at 2:00pm and by lunch time, the street was packed with hundreds of locals and tourists.
The parade was also a showcase of the various cultural elements that make up Laos.
The hour-long parade was designed by the Pralak Pralam Royal Theatre Procession with elderly Laotians, monks, drummers, Lao traditional musicians and displays of local products and handicrafts.
What struck visitors most about the procession was the Khamoo minority's traditional music, the Hmong minority's cultural program and the spectacle provided by other minorities in the parade. There were also Thai Hoon traditional dances and local songs. All the tribes wore their traditional colorful costumes and some had scary make-up and masks, giving the audience a vivid impression of how diversified this tiny country actually is.
Buddha washing
When the cheerful procession came to end, the water war reached its peak.
To escape from a soaking and find an unique way to celebrate the New Year, Luang Prabang is really a good choice. Particularly around the numerous Wats (meaning temples in Lao), where visitors could savor the essence of this tiny town -- a harmonious fusion of dense red-roofed Wats and French-style mansions built by the colonial authorities in the 19th and 20th centuries.
The remarkably well-preserved townscape illustrates a key stage in the blending of these two distinct cultural traditions and was designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1995.
Of the 32 gilded Wats in this area, the most famous is Wat Xieng Thong which was constructed at the junction of the rivers in 1560. It is by far the most spectacular of all Luang Prabang Temples, if not all temples in Laos.
Built in traditional Laotian style, Wat Xieng Thong is an excellent example of traditional Laotian architecture. It features a roof sweeping nearly to the ground and its walls are decorated on both sides with stenciled gold motifs.
One good way to explore the temples and Buddhism in Laos is to talk to monks. Many of the young monks in Luang Prabang and Vientiane speak English and are willing to strike up a conversation with tourists.
Another must-go site is the former royal palace which now serves as a museum and is open to public. It was built in 1904 by the French and displays a tasteful fusion of European and Lao designs.
On the right side of the entrance to the museum is the Prabang room, which was also used as King's prayer room. The central elevated Buddha figure is the most sacred Buddha image in Laos -- Prabang Buddha -- after which the town is named. It is gold, silver and bronze and weighs approximately 54 kilograms.
Usually it can only been seen in the palace but for the new year celebrations it is taken to the nearby Wat Mai for the "Buddha Washing" ceremony.
Hundreds of locals, most of whom are female, swarmed over Wat Mai in their finest traditional clothes to worship the Prabang. They light candles and incense and kneel down to pray before the image.
For the "Buddha Washing", they climb some stairs and pour water onto the image through wooden sluice pipes. Similar ceremonies are also organized in other temples but none receive as many worshippers and prayers as Wat Mai because of the incredible status of the great Prabang.
Unspoiled village
The highlight of the seven-day trip was a one-day stay in Nong Khiaw, a mountain village along the river to the north of Luang Prabang.
The six-hour upstream boat journey was the most fascinating. The scenery was fabulous. The water was crystal green, reflecting the green mountains along the river. Women do their washing in the river, while fisherman laying out woven fish baskets, children playing in the water and lush sub-tropical scenery.
No matter what people were doing, they would stop their activities and wave to visitors as the boat passed by.
Resting at the foot of a striking red-faced cliff, amid towering blue-green limestone escarpments, Nong Khiaw remains unspoiled apart from a dozen guesthouses catering to backpackers.
The mountains are covered in lush foliage and mists lie low on them for most of the morning. Around the small town, there are a few villages and local tribes to visit. And, of course, a few caves. There are several straw-and-bamboo cottages beside the river which was part of one of the guesthouses. It cost only US$2 a night. The whole village was engulfed in total darkness straight after sunset.
Chang Tianle, Shanghai Star staff reporter, is now working as a volunteer in Vientiane of Laos.
(Shanghai Star May 15, 2003)
