But the rise in non-native residents has been matched by their rising concern at the destruction of the city's heritage.

In particular, they feel that too many historic neighbor-hoods have been bulldozed which should have been protected.

Many view the removal of traditional hutong and their replacement by concrete blocks of flats as having a detrimental effect on the city's image.

Foreigners are increasingly choosing to live in these hutong -- Beijing-style traditional communities -- rather than the international apartment buildings.

Official statistics show that foreigners living in China's capital now number more than 50,000, and the figure is growing rapidly.

Piet Bos, a blue-eyed Dutchman who has the Chinese name "Senlin," has worked in Beijing as a business agent for two years. He and his Chinese girlfriend rent a flat at Ju'er Hutong -- a long, narrow lane which is home to about 60 foreign families and many more Chinese households.

"Like many friends of mine, I learned about the hutong from magazines," Bos said.

Located in central Beijing, Ju'er Hutong has a history of more than 100 years. It is the street where a provincial governor in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) once lived and is blessed by the tranquil atmosphere of siheyuan, compounds with houses around a courtyard with old Beijing features.

"Here we have real neighbors and friends," says Adum Lajoie, a 26-year-old hutong dweller from the United States.

At the entrance to the Ju'er Hutong there is a covered area where foreigners often drink tea and chat with grocery store bosses and bike repairmen.

"We don't consider them (the foreigners) strange, and they are quite easy-going," said a grocer at the hutong, praising the foreigners for their vitality and politeness.

A young writer surnamed Hessler has been deeply impressed by Beijing's culture. Working on a book about China, he said Beijing should preserve its traditional culture.

But the rapid modernization of Beijing also entices foreigners.

"In comparison with my hometown which has remained basically unchanged, Beijing is a city full of changes," Bos says, looking at a newly widened avenue that had previously suffered from traffic jams. Opposite the avenue, a housing project is well under way.

"There are lots of jobs in Beijing," said Adum Lajoie, who works for an English teaching program at Beijing Television.

Bos said he will stay in Beijing until 2008 when the city hosts the Olympic Games. "I want to see how much the city will change then," he added.

(China Daily October 15, 2002)