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| The Lifeblood of Heavenly Cities |
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In 1280, Italian traveler Marco Polo (1254-1324) arrived at a port of Hangzhou in today's Zhejiang Province of East China. Fresh fish were piled up high on a ship sailing nearer along the Grand Canal. More ships veered in or set out, bearing silk, bronze, pearls, incense, porcelain and many more refined items. According to Polo's influential book Travels, Kublai Khan (1214-94) of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) appointed him as tax inspector in Yangzhou of today's Jiangsu Province for three years. Polo was also a regular visitor to nearby Hangzhou, which is surrounded by many beautiful lakes and canals, much like his hometown, Venice. Polo fell in love with it. The Grand Canal is the lifeblood of the many cities on its banks. It is the reason why Yangzhou, Hangzhou, Suzhou and many more have earned lavish reputations.
Stretching for more than 1,800 kilometers from Beijing to Hangzhou, the Grand Canal's history can be dated back to the 6th century BC, though principle construction began in AD 605 by the order of Yang Guang, or Emperor Yangdi of the Sui Dynasty (AD 581-618). Emperor Yangdi has been criticized by some historians as "one of the worst emperors" for squandering national wealth for his personal entertainment. However, the poet-painter ruler did leave a precious heritage the south-north Grand Canal links five rivers that flow from west to east: Haihe, Yellow River, Huaihe, Yangtze and Qiantang. But most importantly, the canal connects two dynamic economic zones, the Yangtze River
Delta near Shanghai and the area around the Bohai Bay including Beijing and Tianjin. It is fair to say that without this vital link, Chinese history would have been considerably different. Traveling along the canal, you can see first-hand the day-to-day rituals of the fascinating locals. All 18 major cities along the canal are linked by highways and it is possible to reach all major sites in a week-long drive. However, for most foreign tourists, a realistic trip would involve three days or more in Hangzhou, Suzhou and Yangzhou. These three cities are close to Shanghai and offer more than enough exciting activities to fill a short trip. As spring comes, these three cities will present the best of their charm in April. Hangzhou: new heaven Traditionally, Hangzhou and Suzhou are acclaimed as "heavenly cities". To gain a thorough understanding of the Grand Canal and the city's history, go to the China Grand Canal Museum near the Gongchen Bridge, the official starting point of the Grand Canal. There you can take a boat and see cultural relics, models and pictures of the canal. But the essence of Hangzhou is tea. It is said that more than 80 percent of the 1,000 teahouses in Hangzhou are run by graceful women, aged between 25-45. Tea drinking is, indeed, quite the elegance exercise around here. Surrounding the picturesque West Lake are many teahouses, which present tea ceremonies, local folk opera, snacks and fruits. You can spend a whole day there with less than $8. The Qingteng Chaguan (Ivy Teahouse) offers a good view of the West Lake with sandalwood tables and ancient chairs. The Taiji Chadaoyuan (Taichi Tea Ceremony Garden) features 1920s decor, even down to the waiters' uniforms. From March to May, farmers at Meijiawu in the suburbs of Hangzhou are busy picking, frying and packing the famed Longjing Tea for customers around the world. Visitors can drop into any of the tea gardens along the road and try their hand at making the widely celebrated tea. The farmers can help you distinguish good tea from bad tea and they are also great chefs who use local chicken, fish, bamboo shoots and other vegetables. Louwailou at the West Lake is probably the most famous restaurant in Hangzhou. Former US President Richard Nixon once ate there with Premier Zhou Enlai in 1972, savoring the Longjing xiaren (shrimp cooked with Longjing tea). At a mere $8, one can enjoy many more unique local dishes. Besides tea and food, the most enjoyable experience in Hangzhou is hunting for bargains at the Silk City on the Xinhua Street. It is customary for the shop attendants to throw a piece of silk into the air to display its quality before wrapping it around the customer. And here's a tip: A good shopper should be able to settle a deal at one-third of the asking price. Suzhou: ancient charisma Sadly, the beauty of the ancient gardens in Suzhou is under threat from the herds of tourists that trample through in peak times. Choose dawn or dusk, or a rainy or snowy day to visit the Shizilin, Zhuozhengyuan, Liuyuan, Wangshiyuan and Canglangting, which are World Cultural Heritage sites. From March to November, folk operas are staged at Wangshiyuan garden. Don't worry about not understanding the performers, most Chinese can't, although Suzhou is the most musical of all Chinese dialects. A stroll around the garden provides a glimpse into how the country's upper class of yesteryear spent their leisure time. A boat trip along the city moat, which is connected with the Grand Canal, lasts 80 minutes beginning from 6 pm with the last boat setting off at 8 pm. One ticket costs 68 yuan ($8) and renting the whole boat is about 800 yuan ($100). All sorts of snacks, fruits and tea are also on offer. Ambitious visitors might consider a class at the Suzhou Embroidery Institute on the Jingde Road, which is set in an ancient garden. The courses are reasonably priced but serious learning involves at least one month's dedication. Yangzhou: imperial dream Yangzhou once served as the imperial garden for many emperors. Emperor Yangdi of the Sui Dynasty visited the city three times during his 13 years on the throne. In the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), both emperors Kangxi and his grandson Qianlong patronized the city many times. Breakfast at Fuchun Teahouse serves superb snacks at incredibly low price. For about $4, one can enjoy great dishes such as porridge (jinsong feicui geng), shrimp dipped in liquor (meigui zuixia), steamed stuffed bun (including sandingbao, xiehuangbao, feicui shaomai, fuchun tangbao) and noodles with shrimps (xiaren weimian). A dragon boat trip follows the route that Emperor Qianlong once used at the Thin West Lake (Shouxihu). As you sail, an elegant lady plays music at the front of the boat, while a narrator talks about the legends surrounding the emperors. Beijing-based magazine Traveler contributed to the story. (China Daily March 15, 2007)
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