Biandanshan Town is located on the upper reaches of the Huangguoshu Falls in Guizhou Province. Crystal streams run beside villages, scattered amongst the hills, farmlands and woods covering dozens of square kilometers. Farmers work industriously in the fields, and local women dressed in ethnic clothes walk briskly along country roads, holding their children or cloth-wrapped bundles. Aozi Village, the center of Biandanshan Town, is 10 km away from the falls.
Aozi Village has more than 100 families. The farmers’ houses are piled with rocks of different sizes. Some villagers lean by their doors, chatting with one another, and some relax in the sun while drying rice, sitting in front of their houses. Young Bouyei women embroider or do wax painting.
A clear stream divides in two when it meets the village, which is much higher than the riverbed. Then, the two streams flow separately around the village and rejoin on the other side. Other streams feed into the river during the next dozen or so kilometers. The river continues on and then suddenly there is an 80-meter drop at a cliff, 100 meters wide. This is Huangguoshu Falls.
Springs surge in a “dragon well” near the river in the village. With the aid of pumps, running spring water reaches all the village families and even many of the village’s public places. Doing laundry by the river is always a party for the villagers.
Many young people have left the villages for a whole new world outside. Those who stay lead simple lives. The only telephone is located in the village store.
In the houses of the families who are better off, there are wooden walls, windows and floors. Some have knitting rooms, where these minority people create their unique ethnic patterns and well-known embroidery work.
Aozi Village is only one of 48 villages in Biandanxiang Town. These villages on the riverbanks and among the mountains all have their own enchanting tales and beautiful scenery.
Visitors may enjoy the green water, ancient arched bridge and stone villages, while breathing in the fresh country air, or occasionally catch the scent of burning hay blowing in the breeze.
Travel Tips:
Starting from Guiyang Bus Station, buses take three hours to get to Baimahu Hotel in Zhenning County. Mountains surround this waterside hotel. The corridor leading to the rooms is a water yard where guests may fish. Its standard rooms and three-bed rooms cost around 30 to 50 yuan each.
Shitou Village in Biandanxiang Town is a 15-minute bus ride from the hotel. The enchanting countryside is only about 8 km away from Aozi Village. Local buses (not in good condition) shuttle between two villages.
There are no hotels in the villages, so better stay the night at Baimahu Hotel. If you want to know more about the local life, you may find accommodations in the villagers’ houses. Hosts are hospitable, though the conditions are hard.
There is no restaurant either. You can bring some food with you if you cannot bear the coarse ones of the villagers.
It is about 8 km between Biandanxiang Town and the Guiyang-Huangguoshu Expressway and 3 km between the expressway and Huangguoshu Falls. After arriving at the expressway by country bus, you may wait for a second bus to the falls, or, if in high spirits, walk along the scenic stream to the falls, which takes about two hours.
(Beijing Review 05/10/2001)
