Israeli fashion designer Itamar Zechoval says he hates fashion, but he designs for performers like Marilyn Manson. In Shanghai he guides local brands in building their style and image to compete in the global market.
One of the great things about being a fashion designer in China, says Israel expat Itamar Zechoval, is that surprisingly there is no fashion industry system existing as yet. That gives lots of room to the 33-year-old to help local brands go global.
"I have never considered myself as part of the fashion industry, I'm sort of an odd designer; I love my work and I hate fashion," says Zechoval who has lots of work to do - for Chinese firms, for magazines like Vanity Fair, for himself and for celebrities like Marilyn Manson.
"It is we (expats) who have to make up the rules and define new approaches to the work. It is exciting to realize how people are willing to embark on new projects and to experiment with new markets," says the 33-year-old known for his glamorous and theatrical designs.
Zechoval has been living in the city since 2006.
His work appears in the pages of Vogue and other top magazines; he designs for them as well and designs image-wear for celebrities.
In the city he has also designed collections and he expects to launch his own man's collection soon.
In China Zechoval guides local brands to develop their style and image to compete in the global market.
"Witnessing the fast evolution of the system and the constant growth is very energizing. Actually, it is surprising that in some fields (fashion being one of them) there is no actual system existing, yet."
The designer knew from the beginning that his life would have to follow an artistic direction. "Fashion was an interesting way to combine my talents and passion to realize my ideas."
Born in Israel, where he lived until the age of 21, Zechoval was influenced by his creative parents - his father a film director, his mother an artist and graphic designer.
So after Israeli military service, he left for Milan, Italy, to study fashion design. He stayed there for 10 years.
He decided to move to Shanghai after his first visit in 2006. He came to visit his girlfriend who was working for three months as an interior architect.
"My trip to visit her was originally planned for just two weeks but I ended up staying longer until we finally returned to Italy, only to pack up our things and permanently move here."
Now a full-time designer in Shanghai, Zechoval continues, "Working in fashion in China requires the combination of many skills I acquired during my experience in Milan."
Through design, artistic direction and styling he guides local brands to build a solid image that can be competitive in the global market.
Spending his days with models and photographers or touching fabrics and choosing colors with his tailor, he says, "If there is any routine in my daily life, then it is the constant research for new ideas and inspirations."
He operates in the full spectrum of the fashion industry, beginning from market definition to design and finally the launch of the brand or collection.
"Since I came to Shanghai I have designed various collections ranging from the trendy sports line for BMW, accessories collections for men and women to a transgressive women's pret-a-porter line," he says.
Zechoval's style is diverse: it includes design and production of signature items for fashion houses and magazines like Vanity Fair and Etienne Aigner, special image outfits for fashion shows, styling for magazines like Vogue and Perfect and custom-made personalized outfits for celebrities.
"Apart from that I continue to dedicate time to more personal and creative projects such as costumes for performing artists, and my own man's collection that is soon to be launched."
Chinese fashion is in a very critical phase, he continues.
"Many companies have already recognized the necessity of creating a brand identity based on solid ideas that are reflected in the collection itself, but also requires campaigns, shops and visual communications."
In order to access the upper echelons of the fashion industry, Chinese brands must develop local competence and capacity while simultaneously establishing international standards.
The creation of a strong brand and well-defined product identity is crucial to achieving this goal.
"But unlike Europe where this process took today's leading brands years of research and perfection, in China there is a tendency to seek shortcuts. Nevertheless, there are some new generation young designers appearing on the local fashion scene that have a bright future."
His advice to new designers: "Be bold: always dedicate time to research, never copy, and look for inspiration 'at home.' Today there is an overflow of new designers. Be unique by expressing your personal style and visions will make you stand out."
(Shanghai Daily September 4, 2007)
