"We come here not as a conqueror. We come here humbly and thankfully. China is always a source of inspiration for European designers. The other day, I went to an antique shop in Hong Kong to buy a Buddha. The owner told me, 'You can't buy a Buddha, but you can invite a Buddha home.' Similarly, we are here to sell clothes, but more than that, we are here to tell stories. Every dress tells a story."
Jean Paul Donald Potard, president of Jean Paul Gaultier Group, said this in a short speech before the catwalk show of Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/Summer 2004 collection at Beijing's Peninsula Hotel on Wednesday evening.
It was a party to celebrate the opening of its store at the hotel, where most world famous brands such as Vasace, Armani, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior have outlets.
Gaultier's avant-garde clothes contrasted sharply with the surroundings - an old-style Chinese courtyard with carved wooden window lattices and railings and marble stairs.
Top Chinese model Lu Yan led the catwalk show.
The women's collection paid special homage to the particular beauty of russet-red. The range of colors in the collection was selected to set off the dark beauty of russet-red - ranging from extreme pale tones to bright reds.
Prints featured russet-reds. Dresses were short and trousers were very narrow.
Some outfits were conceived using the technique of morphing, such as hybrid-jackets, shirts, skirts and trousers.
The colors and materials of the collection were inspired by linens, jacquards, tulles and cottons.
The men's collection emphasized various textures. The colors included beige, chestnut and caramel. The silhouettes emphasized length with very narrow trousers, jackets that hug the body, and long and narrow lapels. Waistcoats were inspired by restaurant waiters with many pockets. The shirts had collars raised and tied high with ties, conveying a dandy and elegant spirit.
Bold experiments
Jean Paul Gaultier is a gleefully outrageous designer, a man who habitually defies or ignores the standard definitions of style and sensibility.
He has brought kitsch into the mainstream of Couture, along with fetishism, male cross-dressing, and any number of other wild and innovative concepts. He believes that people feel and experience things in different ways. Something that seems common to one person might seem special to another.
Gaultier says he finds his inspiration on the streets. More precisely, he finds it down alleyways at underground parties and in the hallucinogenic factories that produce the fantasy of urban life.
He blends these trends with styles from past eras and often uses Victorian gowns and French sailor stripes as motifs.
Like many other renowned fashion designers, Gaultier designs for entertainment stars. The big names include Madonna, Nicole Kidman, Katherine Deneuve, Luc Besson, Bjork Gudmundsdottir, Sarah Jessica (starred as Carrie Bradshaw in "Sex and City").
The late Hong Kong star Lesley Cheung is the only Chinese artist he has collaborated with so far.
In his most controversial show to date, held in Hong Kong in 2000, he amazed the audience with his unisex image: long hair, red high-heel shoes and a feminine costume.
Born in Paris in 1952, Jean Paul Gaultier joined Piere Cardin at the age of 18 and displayed the first collection under his name in 1976.
In the mid-1980s, he rekindled public interest in designer Couture with his inspired men's collections. In 1985, he shocked the world with his red-lace and leather collection.
The women wore red lace and black leather chaps, complete with cut-outs for the hips. While the men sported platform shoes, feathers and naked chests. Since then, the designer has introduced space helmets, metal breastplates, men's skirts, and the notorious cone bra worn by Madonna.
In 1999, Gaultier's joint venture with Hermes International signified a big leap forward in brand development. In 2002, his first new concept boutique opened in New York, a milestone in his career.
And now he has come to China, the most amazing high-potential market in the world, as Potard puts it.
New market
On Wednesday afternoon, Potard, Gaultier's close associate, received China Daily at the luxurious store on the LL2 floor of the Peninsula Hotel for an exclusive interview.
This is the second store Gaultier has opened in China.
About a month ago, he opened his 186-square-metre flagship store at Lee Gardens Two in Hong Kong. And a Shanghai store is scheduled to open in early June.
The Beijing store occupies 200 square metres. Its design and decor follows that of the Paris flagship, which is the work of famous designer Philipe Starck.
The concept is a mix, which matches elements such as big mirrors, a crystal chandelier and padded taffeta covered panels with ethnic details like the "tadelakt," painting technique inspired by North African decorative art.
The store features taffeta padded niches that accommodate racks and mannequins. Tables and bureaus used for displaying accessories are made of chrome metal, glass and engraved mirror.
Big video screens hang in the windows featuring the latest Jean Paul Gaultier runway shows in Paris. "It is my fourth trip to China and I have only visited Beijing and Shanghai," Potard said. "I like both cities but for different reasons. Beijing is an old city with a very long history, beautiful buildings and museums. I am an antique fan so I enjoy visiting the antique shops here, while Shanghai is a city with amazing energy.
"Today, everyone in Europe talks about Shanghai," he said.
The designer compared China to Japan in the 1970s when almost all European designers went there to extend their markets. But he said today's China has even more potential than Japan. "That's why we are here now. It's the right time," he said.
"I am amazed that Chinese people learn so fast." He said that 10 years ago when he paid his first visit to China, he was sure that China had a very long way to go to catch up in the fashion world.
However, China is now able to produce exquisite products. Most materials used to decorate the store were made in China. From the glasswork to the furniture, the craftsmanship is wonderful, he said while pointing out some details of the store.
Turning to the designer, Potard said he got to know Jean Paul Gaultier at kindergarten when he was three years old.
"We are not best friends but brothers. He started his career in fashion and I started in theatre as a director. One day he came to me and said: 'Why don't we work together?' Thus we started collaboration in 1976."
"Fashion has a lot to do with theatre. Catwalk shows combine lighting, music, and scenery as well as dresses and models. So my experience in theatre has helped our cooperation greatly.
Talking about the concept of fashion, the theatre director-turned fashion group president has his own philosophy: "Fashion is not only clothes; it is culture as well. Fashion tells stories, helps you show your personality. The way you dress is the way you communicate with others and with yourself."
As for Gaultier's designs, Potard comments: "Jean Paul Gaultier's collections suit all walks of life. Traditional people can find tailoring of quality; young people can find the latest trends; sporty people can find casual wear; and there are creative designs for the sophisticate. It is a dynamic and open-minded label."
Potard has arranged many meetings and fashion activities involving China and France and he has seen some young Chinese designers' collections.
"Young Chinese designers have developed so quickly that I believe the next generation of fashion will belong to them - their fresh ideas and inspirations."
(China Daily April 24, 2004)
