So many Fall/Winter fashion shows are held one after another in Shanghai these days that eyes glaze over and newspapers are choked with photographs. But some recent shows at Lane Crawford are truly amazing.
In the women's collection from the German Strenesse, the designer attempts to continue last season's oversized theme in a very feminine way.
Inspired by a Far Eastern aesthetic, Strehle showed a mostly black collection, heavy with Japanese references such as kimono sleeves, torso-wrapping obi belts and rosy-toned prints that leavened the monochrome palette, showing up in loose blouses and fluid, knee-length dresses.
The generously cut black trench coats and feminine black satin dresses are great looking pieces which will appeal to serious fashion followers this season.
The Philosophical Girl is tougher yet still tender this season. Her wardrobe now contains an eclectic mix of Chinese jackets and vests, grunge-influenced plaid, and a lot of tiny smock dresses.
The new addition of menswear shirt stripes and distressed leather coats give this girl enough to wear when she wants to hang out with the cool gang, but she is still a sweetheart underneath with those signature empire-line coats and chiffon dresses, all still true to her secret good-girl nature.
Gazzarrini's Fall/Winter collection is presented in new ethnic and psychedelic pre-punk styles. Jackets and overcoats have slim lines and well-defined shoulders. Rough wool knits are made with a jacquard carpet effect.
This season's highlights include formal suits, both single and double-breasted, and one button dinner jackets, together with very low-waist pencil trousers. Dyed suede, leather with Moroccan reliefs, ironed duffel coats with fur effect, marbled horse-leather, and shining eel leather are widely used in his collection, making it a contemporary classic.
Functionality, practicality and quality are the characteristics of these clothes, with the main collection supported by two flash collections throughout the year, offering an updated range of colours, fabrics and lines.
(Shanghai Star November 1, 2002)
