Once upon a time the measure of a wristwatch was its ability to keep accurate time. While that criteria still applies, personal timepieces have become the latest status symbols. Obscenely expensive, their time-keeping function now seems like an afterthought, writes Constance Wu.
Check out the desk-bound computer programmer with a titanium, bullet-proof chronograph that tells time in 27 time zones and features a spear gun for deep sea fishing. Then there's the smart career gal with a diamond-studded number that costs more than her yearly take-home pay.
The time for ostentatious timepieces has arrived in China, and the status-obsessed Shanghainese are trading in their perfectly good knock-offs for watches that look like they can withstand nuclear blasts and link up with satellites.
Imported brands like Rado, Citizen, Omega, Cartier and Swatch have launched expensive marketing campaigns to convince consumers that time is of the essence - and expense.
Fancy the Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin? Be prepared to hit the ATM for an unconscionable 30 million yuan (US$3.6 million) - give or take a mil.
To make matters worse, it seems one wristwatch simply won't do. Yes, there are now seasonal "collections," and that sterling Rado you thought was evergreen when you bought it last fall, really won't fly in the warmer months.
If that gets you ticked off, you are probably alone. Many are buying into the cult of seasonal watches, and brands like Cartier and Rolex couldn't be happier.
Cartier is introducing an "exclusively masculine" watch called the Roadster. The man who wears a Roadster is undoubtedly more masculine than one who wears, say, a sundial. The contours of the Roadster are designed to catch the light, and "symbolize the two sides of the male persona:" action and repose. Is that what Carl Jung was talking about? The Duality of Man thing? Interchangeable straps - steel bracelet or black calfskin - allow the wearer to reflect his mood on his wrist. Steel for power lunch; calfskin for romantic dinner?
Cartier's fluted leather strap, which "reduces contact with the skin," is a smart design for the sticky summer months - and you'll hardly notice if someone removes it while your napping on a park bench.
Sporting a 15,000-yuan Cartier watch, beauty magazine editor Jeannie Zhu says, "a famous name brand watch is not only expensive proof of one's affection but it's actually a statement. To men, it means social status, while for women, it is all about fashion sense." We are indebted to beauty magazine editor Zhu for her brilliant insights - who would have known that for women it's about fashion sense?
On to Calvin Klein. Making the leap from undergarments to precision watches, CK group president Arlette Emch says the designer's timepieces are contemporary, sexy and simple. (Kind of like Brad Pitt.)
The big thing for summer watches this year are straps designed to reduce contact with the skin - and we eagerly await the watch that hovers over the wrist. And, of course, water-proof is also important - for what middle manager can do without a watch that is waterproof to 30 meters? The CK Dress II features a series of real steel rings on its bracelet-like strap, "another cool design for sweltering summer days."
Swiss watchmaker Swatch launched its Irony 2002 series in early June. (Irony 2002?) Silvery steel is the color for summer, enhanced by the trademark Swatch plastic strap. The Swatch faces feature the shades of summer in Swatch's characteristic gumball colors. The pinks and blues of newly launched Flikflak let kids join in the fun for 200 yuan and up.
Oh, goody.
Luxury watches are not just about fashion, says Wang Qiang. The middle school teacher, who sports a Rado on his wrist points out: "Watches are luxury items, yes, but with that luxury comes time-tested durability. Rather than buying a series of watches, I'd rather set my sights on a Longines, even at the price of more than 8,000 yuan, if I can afford it," he adds. Wang makes 2,000 yuan a month.
Today, the wrist is no longer the only place to wear a watch. Watches are decorating belts (warning: If you wear a belt-watch, don't be surprised if people seem to be staring at your groin). And there are necklace watches (a favorite among gangsta rappers) and even cufflink watches. (Note: If you see someone winding their cufflinks don't assume they're insane, okay?)
With style and design the key attractions, "young hipsters are beginning to design their own personalized watches."
Xiangyang Clothing Market - knock-off central in Shanghai - has a custom watch shop where everything from the watch face to the strap can be adapted to fit one's personal style. Names can be engraved on the strap, the color of the watch face can be changed, straps can be cross-stitched and buckles can be custom designed. And they keep time, too!
(eastday.com June 26, 2002)
