China has a long history and many ethnic groups, and the progress of the nation can be seen through its changes in clothing styles. For thousands of years, generations of clothing designers have devoted themselves to building the Kingdom of Clothes, making the garments that cover the human body into an important component of Chinese culture.
Clothing manufacture in China dates back to prehistoric times, at least 7,000 years ago, as evidenced by artifacts such as bone needles unearthed from the ruins at Hemudu in Zhejiang Province.
At a fashion show called Approaching China: The 2000 American Voyage of Chinese Culture, models displayed the most brilliant aspects of traditional Chinese clothing from the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States periods (770-221 B.C.) to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).
The idea of fashion reached a new height during the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States periods, when wars broke out frequently and the various states spared no effort to enhance their strength. The different styles of clothes showed people's positions and the states they came from.
The Qin and Han Dynasties (221 B.C.-A.D. 220) witnessed the unification of China and the written language. Qin Shihuang, the First Emperor of the Qin Dynasty, established many social systems, including one for uniforms to distinguish people's ranks and social positions.
Chinese clothing saw a rapid development during the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern dynasties (220-589). Some time before 265, the cultures and esthetic views of the peoples in north and south China merged because of the moves initiated by frequent wars. The many philosophical schools of thought influenced both people's lives and the conceptions of clothing design.
The Tang Dynasty (618-907) wrote the most brilliant page in the history of Chinese clothing. People's clothes were more varied than before because the state was more open to the outside world and people became more cosmopolitan in their thinking. The clothes for women could be called fashionable because they changed rapidly and were showy. When a new style came out, many people took to it.
Casual wear appeared during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), and clothes were simple and elegant.
During the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368), the Mongolian ethnic group, known as the People on Horseback, was in power. The style of clothing was mainly a combination of Mongolian and Han, the style of the majority. Clothes were luxurious yet simple and unadorned.
Dramatic changes took place during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). A new conception came into being in clothing design, with no limitation to one style and advocating natural beauty, thus bringing vigor and vitality to the clothing culture.
During the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), clothes became elegant, poised, and glorious. During the 200 years of the Qing Empire, the entire world saw dramatic changes such as the Renaissance in Italy and Columbus's discovery of the Americas, but the changes did not affect traditional Chinese clothing because China had a closed-door policy. People still wore clothes showing rank and lifestyle. The retreat from outside cultures has left a precious heritage for traditional Chinese clothes.
(China Pictorial 06/04/2001)
