As a foreigner living in China you may struggle with chopsticks, try and try again to make sense of Mandarin and go ga-ga trying to understand the intricacies of guanxi.
But if you are able to appreciate the profound meaning of Jing Ye Si (Quiet Night Thoughts) by Li Bai, you will understand the significance of the moon in Chinese culture and how the moon, especially the full autumn moon, symbolizes family reunion and celebration. Then on the Chinese Mid-Autumn Moon Festival on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month, (September 25th this year) the moon cakes will not be just another local delicacy, but will fine tune your palate to Chinese aesthetics and joie de vivre.
On a cool night, with the bright moon rising in all its splendor, watching the night sky with your family and loved ones around you, sharing the good things of life, the moon's legends, lore and poems you have heard since childhood make the moment truly magical. No wonder, the Moon Festival is so special to the Chinese and the buzz of the festival is on a good month in advance.
In the age of instant communication, the concept may be difficult to understand. But in the days of old, to romantic lovers who could not be in one place together, gazing at the moon at the same time was the equivalent of what QQ or MSN or Facebook is to a teenager of today.
Chinese festivals are what makes me feel most connected to this place. The emphasis on family, the continuity of culture and the passing on of spiritual software from one generation to the next is as evident in India as it is here in China.
The Mid-Autumn Festival and moon cakes that are eaten while gazing at the moon have parallel in Indian tradition. The Festival of Sharad Purnima, which literally means Autumn full moon, is in the month of Ashvin (September - October). On this day the moon appears enormous as it rises on the horizon, magical in its enchantment the world over. This is the time for many festivities, poetry, art dance and music.
Even in the busy urban globalized lifestyle of Indian cities, most people find time for Sharad purnima. On this day, it is customary to make sweet rice pudding at home. The bowl is kept in the moonlight for cooling and families and friends gather on terraces to enjoy a moonlit repast.
There is also a tradition of community dancing, to the beat of folk instruments and it is a wonderful sight to see beautifully bedecked girls and boys singing, swinging and dancing to the folk beat in a courtyard lit only by the bright moon overhead. The pace set by folk drums fasten, as do nimble feet and young heartbeats, their twinkling toes sift through the sand beneath and the hazy ambience and the crazy moon overhead make for a magical moment you may cherish forever.
The Chinese lunar calendar sets the festive dates. In India too, although the Gregorian calendar is followed for official purposes, there is always a lunar calendar at home to remember dates for festivals and fasts.
I usually keep one handy too but I forgot to bring one to Shanghai. Imagine my surprise and delight when I found an identical looking Chinese lunar calendar while browsing the lanes of the old town near Yuyuan garden. My happiness must have been apparent to the gracious shop lady, for she led me to incense holders and copper candle stands to celebrate my find.
The moon is a big part of Indian ethos. It is considered one of the nine planets or navgraha in astrological reckoning and is at the heart of romantic songs and poems in all of the myriad Indian languages. Festivals are linked to the phases of the moon and so are moods and mysterious patterns of behavior.
Full moons bring good omens of the fullness of life while the no moon day is reason enough for many traditional craftsmen to lay down their tools and take a break for a day. While millions of Indians lead their lives by the official Gregorian calendar, and are oblivious to the phases of the moon, there are still a number who will not travel on the day of the dark amasvya when the moon disappears in the dark night.
I was surprised therefore, while on a TV shoot in Australia a few years ago, the moon popped up in a casual conversation. We were taking a quick lunch break while shooting at a huge casino and somehow the topic of how many people reporting sick on that day cropped up. Our host nodded wisely and said, "It's the full moon, you know." It was a casual remark that could have either been a personal observation or a native belief. But that stuck in my mind and later as I tried to delve into the delicious differences that the southern hemisphere location gives to Australia, including summer Christmas parties on the beach and the way water drains in the opposite direction down in the sink. I tried to find out whether there was any local moon and mood theory but without success. To me these cultural beliefs are as important as modern scientific facts.
I do follow with interest the plans of various countries to send missions to the moon but it cannot take away the magic of moonlight from my mind. I can still look up and see Chang'e, and the jade hare in the moon that hovers over Shanghai and yet there is room enough to ensconce the old lady with a spinning wheel who is so much a part of my own nursery lore. The moon in mid autumn gives me another reason to appreciate the changing seasons in Shanghai and find parallels in two ancient traditions.
(China Daily September 16, 2007)
