In these shaky economic times, Italian designers have chosen rags over riches for their fall-winter 2009-10 menswear collections, currently previewing on the Milan runway.
Gone are the trademark flashy fabrics, dandy designs and macho models, replaced by classic sporty styles in sensible wool, worn by almost boringly average young men.
Off the runway, things are just as subdued, with few parties and little of the VIP courting that usually spice up fashion week. Highlight of the weekend was British soccer star David Beckham in the front row at Giorgio Armani's Emporio collection. Beckham, who is the face of Emporio Armani underwear, is currently playing for AC Milan, while his regular team, Los Angeles Galaxy, enjoys the off-season.
"At a time like this, you have to think positive and work hard," says Stefano Gabbana in a chat with reporters before the Dolce&Gabbana show that kicked off the unusually short, four-day fashion week last Saturday.
The designing duo hark back to their Sicilian roots for next winter, presenting youths in three-piece suits, accessorized by the traditional roguish "coppola" cap, and very expensive crocodile briefcases.
Staid overcoats in black and gray tweed complete the all-business look.
For relaxed home time, the duo offer quilted silk pants, while evening is all about elegant hand-woven silk jackets matched with brightly colored pointed footwear - Dolce & Gabbana's only concession to flair.
Miuccia Prada on Sunday evening used her minimalist wand to combat the crisis with one of her most essential collections ever. The almost all black and gray show featured jackets and coats with neither lapels nor buttons, slim slacks and plain sweaters. The only details in the collection were the myriad of studs, which dot white shirts, slacks and classic footwear, like mini nails securing the outfits to the body. In hard times, the new oversized Prada bag could also double as a suitcase.
Tomas Maier's Sunday show for Bottega Veneta was a class act in downplaying. Based on the soft lines of a cardigan, everything from the muted brown palette, to the subtly crumpled fabrics for small jackets and slim trousers, to the thick-soled loafers worn with coarsely knitted socks, and the soft leather bags, combined to create a charmingly disheveled look.
"It's an unusual time, obviously, and we thought very carefully about what it is our customer wants and needs right now," the German-born designer said in his fashion notes for the show.
The second line Emporio Armani collection for next winter, presented on Sunday afternoon in the theater of the designer's Milan headquarters, also opted for relaxed over rigid.
Not only is the staple Armani jacket softer than usual in ultra-light wools and fleece-like velvet, but knitted shawls and capes make their debut in the contemporary male wardrobe.
Departing from his staple urban palette, Armani paints his new look in bucolic green.
A key player in the riches to rags department is Christopher Bailey for Burberry, who Saturday evening sent tousle-haired youths wearing Oliver Twist caps down the runway in crumpled shirts, slim trousers, heavy knit sweaters and desert boots with an exaggeratedly pointed toe. All-purpose tweed overcoats and a trademark Burberry plaid ring scarf complete the tough-times look.
(Shanghai Daily January 21, 2009)
