Wuzhen, about 80 kilometers from Hangzhou, is
one of many small towns where people still rely on the river
network.
In 1280, Italian traveler Marco Polo (1254-1324) arrived at a port
of Hangzhou in today's Zhejiang Province of East China. Fresh fish
were piled up high on a ship sailing nearer along the Grand Canal.
More ships veered in or set out, bearing silk, bronze, pearls,
incense, porcelain and many more refined items.
According to Polo's influential book Travels, Kublai Khan
(1214-94) of the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) appointed him as tax
inspector in Yangzhou of today's Jiangsu Province for three years.
Polo was also a regular visitor to nearby Hangzhou, which is
surrounded by many beautiful lakes and canals, much like his
hometown, Venice.
Polo fell in love with it.
The Grand Canal is the lifeblood of the many cities on its
banks. It is the reason why Yangzhou, Hangzhou, Suzhou and many
more have earned lavish reputations.
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A tourist boat sails along the brightly
lit Grand Canal in Hangzhou of East China's Zhejiang
Province.
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The Thin West Lake (Shouxihu) of Yangzhou
in East China's Jiangsu Province enters the most beautiful season
of the year. |
Twenty two tea growers join in a
competition of frying the famed Longjing Tea at Meijiawu of
Hangzhou in early spring.
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Stretching for more than 1,800 kilometers from Beijing to Hangzhou,
the Grand Canal's history can be dated back to the 6th century BC,
though principle construction began in AD 605 by the order of Yang
Guang, or Emperor Yangdi of the Sui Dynasty (AD 581-618).
Emperor Yangdi has been criticized by some historians as "one of
the worst emperors" for squandering national wealth for his
personal entertainment. However, the poet-painter ruler did leave a
precious heritage the south-north Grand Canal links five rivers
that flow from west to east: Haihe, Yellow River, Huaihe, Yangtze
and Qiantang.
But most importantly, the canal connects two dynamic economic
zones, the Yangtze River
The 1,800-kilometer Grand Canal,built in AD
605, runs from Beijing to Hangzhou.
?
Delta near Shanghai and the area around the Bohai Bay including
Beijing and Tianjin. It is fair to say that without this vital
link, Chinese history would have been considerably different.
Traveling along the canal, you can see first-hand the day-to-day
rituals of the fascinating locals. All 18 major cities along the
canal are linked by highways and it is possible to reach all major
sites in a week-long drive.
However, for most foreign tourists, a realistic trip would
involve three days or more in Hangzhou, Suzhou and Yangzhou. These
three cities are close to Shanghai and offer more than enough
exciting activities to fill a short trip. As spring comes, these
three cities will present the best of their charm in April.
Hangzhou: new heaven
Traditionally, Hangzhou and Suzhou are acclaimed as "heavenly
cities". To gain a thorough understanding of the Grand Canal and
the city's history, go to the China Grand Canal Museum near the
Gongchen Bridge, the official starting point of the Grand Canal.
There you can take a boat and see cultural relics, models and
pictures of the canal.
But the essence of Hangzhou is tea. It is said that more than 80
percent of the 1,000 teahouses in Hangzhou are run by graceful
women, aged between 25-45. Tea drinking is, indeed, quite the
elegance exercise around here.
Surrounding the picturesque West Lake are many teahouses, which
present tea ceremonies, local folk opera, snacks and fruits. You
can spend a whole day there with less than $8.
The Qingteng Chaguan (Ivy Teahouse) offers a good view of the
West Lake with sandalwood tables and ancient chairs. The Taiji
Chadaoyuan (Taichi Tea Ceremony Garden) features 1920s decor, even
down to the waiters' uniforms.
From March to May, farmers at Meijiawu in the suburbs of
Hangzhou are busy picking, frying and packing the famed Longjing
Tea for customers around the world.
Visitors can drop into any of the tea gardens along the road and
try their hand at making the widely celebrated tea. The farmers can
help you distinguish good tea from bad tea and they are also great
chefs who use local chicken, fish, bamboo shoots and other
vegetables.
Louwailou at the West Lake is probably the most famous
restaurant in Hangzhou. Former US President Richard Nixon once ate
there with Premier Zhou Enlai in 1972, savoring the Longjing xiaren
(shrimp cooked with Longjing tea). At a mere $8, one can enjoy many
more unique local dishes.
Besides tea and food, the most enjoyable experience in Hangzhou
is hunting for bargains at the Silk City on the Xinhua Street. It
is customary for the shop attendants to throw a piece of silk into
the air to display its quality before wrapping it around the
customer. And here's a tip: A good shopper should be able to settle
a deal at one-third of the asking price.
Suzhou: ancient charisma
Sadly, the beauty of the ancient gardens in Suzhou is under
threat from the herds of tourists that trample through in peak
times. Choose dawn or dusk, or a rainy or snowy day to visit the
Shizilin, Zhuozhengyuan, Liuyuan, Wangshiyuan and Canglangting,
which are World Cultural Heritage sites.
From March to November, folk operas are staged at Wangshiyuan
garden. Don't worry about not understanding the performers, most
Chinese can't, although Suzhou is the most musical of all Chinese
dialects. A stroll around the garden provides a glimpse into how
the country's upper class of yesteryear spent their leisure
time.
A boat trip along the city moat, which is connected with the
Grand Canal, lasts 80 minutes beginning from 6 pm with the last
boat setting off at 8 pm. One ticket costs 68 yuan ($8) and renting
the whole boat is about 800 yuan ($100). All sorts of snacks,
fruits and tea are also on offer.
Ambitious visitors might consider a class at the Suzhou
Embroidery Institute on the Jingde Road, which is set in an ancient
garden. The courses are reasonably priced but serious learning
involves at least one month's dedication.
Yangzhou: imperial dream
Yangzhou once served as the imperial garden for many emperors.
Emperor Yangdi of the Sui Dynasty visited the city three times
during his 13 years on the throne. In the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911),
both emperors Kangxi and his grandson Qianlong patronized the city
many times.
Breakfast at Fuchun Teahouse serves superb snacks at incredibly
low price. For about $4, one can enjoy great dishes such as
porridge (jinsong feicui geng), shrimp dipped in liquor
(meigui zuixia), steamed stuffed bun (including
sandingbao, xiehuangbao, feicui shaomai,
fuchun tangbao) and noodles with shrimps (xiaren
weimian).
A dragon boat trip follows the route that Emperor Qianlong once
used at the Thin West Lake (Shouxihu). As you sail, an elegant lady
plays music at the front of the boat, while a narrator talks about
the legends surrounding the emperors.
Beijing-based magazine Traveler contributed to the
story.
(China Daily March 15, 2007)
