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Tech innovation, traditional aesthetics reshape China's apparel industry

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A journalist tries a fabric-sourcing robot at Guangzhou Zhijing Information Technology Co., Ltd. in Guangzhou, south China's Guangdong Province, May 15, 2024. [Photo/Xinhua]

Shi Daqing, a 47-year-old apparel industry veteran, was astounded by how quickly he could match a fabric sample using a lunchbox-sized fabric-sourcing robot.

With a swift scan, the device's screen lights up, displaying a high-resolution image that captures every thread and weave of the fabric in striking detail. Within two minutes, a list of verified suppliers appears, complete with real-time pricing and availability.

"For years, sourcing fabrics meant carrying around swatches and running around fabric markets, stall by stall," Shi said. "What once took two or three days can now be done in just two minutes. It's like a scene straight out of a sci-fi flick."

From material sourcing to AI-powered design and intelligent production, digital transformation is propelling China's garment industry up the value chain, shifting from low-cost manufacturing to innovation-driven, high-value development, mirroring the country's broader economic transition.

From loom to lab 

Developed by Zhijing Technology, the fabric-sourcing robot uses AI vision to extract and analyze information like fabric texture, color, material, density and craftsmanship, and then matches it with the fabric database.

"It can retrieve quotations and manufacturer information in just a few minutes, helping garment manufacturers overcome the challenges of fabric sourcing," explained Li Yaping, senior vice president of Zhijing Technology.

In addition to the fabric-sourcing robot, a range of AI-powered tools has been launched in China to modernize its apparel industry. Intelligent design software can assist fashion professionals in creating a wide variety of styles from basic sketches or keyword prompts. AI-driven dyeing systems leverage big data to automate color formulation, significantly increasing the success rate of first-time dyeing.

"Technological progress in 5G, big data, and the Internet of Things have helped shift the textile sector from labor-intensive production to a digitally connected industry built on the industrial internet," said Hu Qimu, deputy director of the Research Center for Strategic Emerging Industries at Tsinghua University.

The digital transformation drive in China's apparel industry has also received continued policy support. This year's government work report emphasized accelerating the digitalization of manufacturing, fostering a number of service providers with both industry expertise and digital know-how, and bolstering support for the digital transformation of small and medium-sized companies.

Cultural heritage in design 

The transformation that is sweeping through China's apparel industry is not only technological but also deeply cultural. An increasing number of domestic brands are incorporating Chinese cultural identity and traditional aesthetics into their designs, sparking a wave of high-end homegrown labels that resonate both locally and globally.

ICICLE, a premium fashion label, uses natural materials such as cashmere, wool and silk to produce comfortable, eco-conscious clothing for urban professionals. The brand also integrates traditional fabrics and craftsmanship -- such as gambiered Canton gauze, a plant-dyed silk, and Suzhou embroidery, known for its intricate patterns -- into contemporary minimalist design.

One of its recent bestsellers is a collaboration with the Shanghai Museum, featuring garments inspired by the traditional Chinese silk scroll painting Paradise Flycatcher Duo Amidst Peach Blossoms, which is part of the museum's collection, and crafted from Chinese textiles like silk and ramie.

ICICLE now operates around 240 stores across China, with annual sales exceeding 3 billion yuan (about 416 million U.S. dollars). In a major step toward global expansion, it debuted on the official calendar of Paris Fashion Week in March this year, joining other international high-end brands at the event.

ICICLE founder Ye Shouzeng said he aims to increase the company's international sales in the coming years, and the brand is preparing to open its fourth store in Paris this year.

China's rich cultural heritage also serves as a wellspring of inspiration for Life on Left, a domestic brand known for reviving the Chinese traditional long pleated skirt Mamianqun. Its annual sales of the skirt have reached nearly 100,000 pieces.

"The market has changed dramatically," said founder Lin Qi, who is also an inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Mamianqun-making. "Once popular among a small group of traditional clothing enthusiasts, the skirt now appeals to a wider audience, including a growing number of younger buyers."

Mamianqun is a typical example of "Guochao" apparel -- trendy fashion inspired by traditional Chinese culture -- that has experienced a spectacular market upsurge in recent years. Industrial data showed that the market size of "Guochao" apparel soared beyond 220 billion yuan last year and is anticipated to hit 250 billion yuan in 2025.

"China's cultural heritage is reshaping its manufacturing sector, with traditional craftsmanship and artistic elements upgrading brand value," said He Yingkun, director of the Industrial Culture Development Center of the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology.

As China shifts from mass production to smart, high-end manufacturing, the fusion of aesthetics and craftsmanship is driving the country's manufacturing sector to move up the global value chain, He added. 

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