Water Towns

Zhouzhuang

Zhouzhuang, China's most stunning water town, where ancient buildings flank rivers crisscrossed by stone bridges. To appreciate it, sit in a teahouse and let the afternoon slip away while you talk to friends and sample the snacks which come with your tea. Take the time to learn how to select, make and appreciate tea, understand why it is a cultural activity. As the small wooden boats pass by, you will have a glimpse into a way of life which has changed little in 1,000 years. It will give you new insights into the beautiful houses of Kunshan's famous families, their formal reception halls,endless courtyards, secret escape routes and hidden gardens, where Chinese noble families practiced tea culture as a way of life.

Zhouzhuang is located in Kunshan, it is less than an hour's bus or car ride from the centers of Kunshan, Shanghai and Suzhou. Temperatures range from -5oC in January, the coldest month, to a high of 36oC in July. Since the city wears the time of day and the seasons like a sequence of beautiful robes, every time you go will be memorable.

Although many people go for a day trip, the best way is to spend a day or two, come in the late afternoon, walk the town and have a leisurely dinner. Spend the night in a restored mansion or local house, or in one of the more conventional nearby hotels. If you rise early you can experience the city as the sun rises and its empty streets become a post card of the past. You need to experience Zhouzhuang, connect with the local pace of life and experience its cultural wonders, not just admire its beauty. Wander along the rivers, either by foot or gondola, and you will be engulfed by its ancient Ming and Qing dynasty architecture, carefully preserved by the local government. Watch Kunqu Opera in the same style Chinese nobles enjoyed, visit the local teahouse and restaurants, taste the local specialties and shop the local bamboo and bronze handicrafts. Zhouzhuang is a real town, not an ersatz Disneyland, but it has a new role as a cultural ambassador of China's past, a role which protects China's priceless heritage and provides new economic opportunities for its residents.

Qiandeng Town

Qiandeng Town is another water town which was developed a little later than Zhouzhuang. It is the hometown of famous philosopher Gu Yanwu and earliest Kunqu Opera composer Gu Jian. Its ancient stone buildings, temples, museums, and courtyard houses also provide a glimpse into China's past. With so many years of history each town has its legends and stories. Qiandeng picturesque gates and central bell tower testifies to its past importance and its role as a trading city.The commercial drive is still visible today as its bustling streets resonate with the sounds of vendors and customers engaged in the day-to-day supply and demand.

It is a place where the past and present of China meet. Old buildings and new vendors are juxtaposed against China's ancient culture and its modern direction. The two interviews I had, one with a hard-working family of vendors and another with a young tour guide, had one thing in common, a shared belief that under China's current direction, all you need is an idea, hard work and a little luck and the future will be bright; ironically the same values which at one time propelled the "American Dream". If the ability to create hope is one of the measures of a society's success then Kunshan, China is succeeding. It also indicates that China's national/ city model is a working system which should be studied more closely.

Mr. Tian and Ms. Zhang, Qiandeng Town store vendors

Mr. Tian and Ms. Zhang (couple) are owners of the Ke Xin Qing Grocery Store in Qiandeng Town. They make their own products and rent their stall from private owners. They work 7 days a week starting at 5 am and finishing at 8 pm. Originally from Heilongjiang they moved when their clothing business was no longer profitable. She thinks the local economy is better and the local people are more businesslike. Her son owns another stall in another part of Qiandeng Town. They were doing a brisk business on a cold and blustery day. She did most of the talking and made it clear that things are much better now than they were before and she expects things to continue to improve.

Mr. Tian and Ms. Zhang are part of Kunshan's migrant economy which includes labors, construction workers and legions of small businesses. Working together 105 hours a week is their choice but it also explains why China's economy is able to make such massive strides. The US in earlier times had a similar work ethic and drive and it allowed us to surpass our European rivals. Unsurprisingly it seems the tables may have turned.

Mrs. Cheng (Tour guide in Qiandeng Town)

Born in Henan, with relatives in Kunshan, she has been working for the Qiandeng Tour Group for five years. She majored in tourism and believes Qiandeng is changing rapidly in a positive direction. Over the last couple of years, she thinks government economic policies have had positive impact, most people's lives are improving quickly. People have more business opportunities and are able to buy luxuries as well as necessities. She works 6 days a week from 8 am to 5 pm, or as needed. Married, she has one child. She expects that her fourteen-month-old daughter will have more opportunities than she and her husband had. She likes flowers and is looking forward to the Shanghai Expo where Qiandeng will have a booth. She has noticed that Qiandeng is being used more and more as a movie and TV show location and hopes it will continue.

One of the differences between the US and China is, while we have developed technology, manufacturing, logistics, distribution, marketing and financial systems, China has people like Mr. Tian, Ms. Zhang and Mrs. Cheng, who seem willing to work, in what we would consider brutal hours, for what they believe is a better future. In our earlier history we had the same determination and drive and it propelled us past our European rivals. Today we have different expectations but we should not be surprised when those who are willing to put the time in and get results. So when you are in Kunshan, or any other part of China, it might be worth getting to know the reality behind the facts. It will at least begin to give you an idea of how China is able to do what it does.