The gigantic Three Gorges Dam Project is going to change the
Yangtze River forever, for better or for worse.
In
the mystical
Shennongjia National Park, the Big Foot (Wild Man) is said to
roam. You may raft down the unspoiled Shennong Stream with
trackers, enjoy a bonfire party with Tujia minority youth, and
visit the hometowns of two legendary Chinese, Wang Zhaojun and Qu
Yuan, along the crystal-clear Xiangxi River.
My
second "farewell" to the Three Gorges last week turned out to be
not without excitement.
Dam project
Our chartered plane landed safely at Yichang Airport in Hubei
Province 11 hours after an Air China passenger plane crashed in
South Korea.
In
the rain, we were transported to a cruise ship - about an hour's
trip via expressways, highways and 3km-long cross-mountain tunnels,
all built for the Three Gorges Dam Project.
Not too far from the well-lit Xiling Yangtze Bridge, the
construction site of the dam was quiet on a rainy evening.
The next morning, we changed to a smaller vessel and visited Baidi
(White Emperor) City. At the entrance to the Qutang Gorge, Baidi
reminds most Chinese of the stories they read in "The Romance of
the Three Kingdoms," especially how the Shu Emperor Liu Bei
(161-223) entrusted his son and state affairs to his prime minister
Zhuge Liang (181-234), considered one of the greatest strategists
in Chinese history.
Carved poems and other cultural relics of the Sui, Yuan, Ming and
Qing dynasties are well preserved. Baidi will become an island in
June next year when the Yangtze will rise to the 130-metre
level.
We
headed towards Qutang Gorge. Many new buildings, bridges and
highways were seen in the higher part of the hills along the
Yangtze, as old buildings in the lower level will be submerged in
about 400 days.
About 8km long, torrential Qutang Gorge is the most perilous. The
narrowest part is less than 100 meters.
Kuimen at Qutang Gorge is flanked by steep cliffs that look like a
huge gate. An image of the gorge is to be found on the five-yuan
and 10-yuan notes.
Ancient plank roads were still visible. Workers were cutting off
the ancient carvings under the future water level and moving them
up to the hills.
Before nightfall, we were sailing towards Wuxia Gorge, with peaks
hidden in swirls of clouds and mist and running zigzag. Tour guides
told beautiful legends about the area, such as the one about
Goddess Peak, which is the personification of the Goddess
Yaoji.
On
the third day, our boat went through the Xiling Gorge, known for
its karst caves once inhabited by dwellers who created the ancient
Chinese civilization.
We
soon passed the construction site of the dam project, imagining
what the area will look like when the dam comes into full operation
in 2009 and water rises to the 170-metre level.
Bidding farewell to the cruise ship, we reached Tanziling, where we
would have a bird's-eye-view of the Three Gorges Project.
Consisting of powerhouses, navigation channels and flood control
dams, the project will be the largest of its kind in the world.
Upon completion, it will help prevent flooding in the middle and
lower reaches of the Yangtze. It will have huge navigation and
electric power generation capacity - equivalent to 10 Daya Bay
Nuclear Power Stations.
More than 1 million people have been relocated.
Rafting
Shennong Stream rafting is different from the exciting rafting down
the rapids I tried last time at the Least Three Gorges (Xiaoxiao
Sanxia). Ten people occupied a soybean-shaped boat.
A
small tributary of the Yangtze River with shallow rapids and
breathtaking gorges, the Shennong Stream is peaceful with birds
singing and barefoot trackers groaning. Hanged coffins and some
Tujia minority houses projected over the water can be seen along
the river.
On
the fourth day, we embarked on a five-hour ride to the Shennongjia
National Park. Due to road collapse, we had to drive on an old
bumpy path.
Xingshan County where we had lunch will be permanently submerged
next year. But it seemed life was going on as usual with small
stores and vendors along the road.
The Shennong Tribune at the entrance to the Shennongjia National
Park is a place to honor Yandi (the Yan Emperor). The colossal
statue at the top of the hill and the 1,000-year-old tree at the
foot gave a reflection of our ancestors.
A
short ride from the tribune is the source of Xiangxi (Fragrant
Stream) River where Wang Zhaojun, one of the four beauties in
Chinese history, used to wash her face. It's said she dropped her
necklace in the water and made it fragrant.
The night ended with a bonfire dance party with minority Tujia
youth. My friend Bill from the US even "married" a pretty Tujia
woman.
Big Foot's home
At
the top of Shennongjia, about 3,000 meters above sea level, it was
snowing the day before we arrived. My apologies to readers who live
in colder places - Shanghai people get excited about snow.
When our advance was blocked by a road collapse, we got off the bus
and started a snowball fight, expecting Big Foot to join us at any
moment.
Shennongjia has one of the largest virgin forests in China. More
than 500 species of wild animals and 2,000 species of wild plants
are found here, including many of the world's rarest. Shennong Peak
at 3,105 meters is the highest in Central China and is easily lost
in dense mist.
The snow-covered Banbiyan (Plate Cliff) was the highlight of the
day for us Shanghai folks. With different views of the mountains at
various points, the more than two hours' hiking was said to be near
the haunt of the Big Foot.
Sightings suggest that the Wild Man is very tall, has red hair,
leaves only footprints and chews corn-cobs.
Our guide said a huge cash prize would be awarded to anyone who
could take a picture of the Wild Man.
Travel tips
Many travel agencies offer five-day package tours to the Three
Gorges and Shennongjia, with round-trip flights between Shanghai
and Yichang. The price is around 2,600 yuan ($310) per person.
Choosing a package that starts on Monday and ends the following
Friday evening is a wise choice to avoid the weekend crowds.
You can have your own cabin (with your own shower) if you are
willing to pay a little more.
While the Three Gorges Project Hotel is gorgeous, the hotels in the
Shennongjia area are relatively simple.
Take a raincoat and some warm clothes - even when the temperature
in Shanghai is 25 degrees Centigrade.
Many people believe that the Three Gorges Dam Project will cause
some old scenic spots to change or disappear and new scenic spots
to emerge.
The various medicinal herbs are the major shopping items for some
Shanghai folks.
(
Shanghai
Star by Rousseau Chen April 25, 2002)